Edge connectors - which to use?
 

I want to join two top plates with an edge connector which is at least 12 way
and preferably 15 way. Purpose - exchanging tube circuits that plug into a
basic PSU + OPT base. The connections will be up to 4 heaters for up to two DH
or IDH output tubes (say 1.6amp each for 6550), heaters for input tubes, anode
and screens, bias volts DC, B+, earth and possibly input signal + and -. Max
width is about 128mm or about 5 inch. Top plates are 6 inch wide.
The best idea I have so far is 12 way pluggable terminal strips - like the
electrical screw-fit types but with a plug and socket on each connector. These
come in 10amp 116mm wide and 6 amp 94mm wide. The 10 amp is tempting but common
sense says leave some spare terminals and go for the narrower 6amp ones. Rating
is 450v. All in all looks pretty handy for swapping circuit projects.
Anything else I should consider before going ahead? Here's the ref.
http://www.camdenelec.com/ Go to terminal strips.

=== Andy Evans ===
Visit our Website:- http://www.artsandmedia.com
Audio, music and health pages and interesting links.

Edge connectors - which to use?
 

On Sun, 04 Jan 2004 18:56:50 +0000, Andy Evans wrote:

I want to join two top plates with an edge connector which is at least 12
way and preferably 15 way. Purpose - exchanging tube circuits that plug
into a basic PSU + OPT base. The connections will be up to 4 heaters for
up to two DH or IDH output tubes (say 1.6amp each for 6550), heaters for
input tubes, anode and screens, bias volts DC, B+, earth and possibly
input signal + and -. Max width is about 128mm or about 5 inch. Top plates
are 6 inch wide. The best idea I have so far is 12 way pluggable terminal
strips - like the electrical screw-fit types but with a plug and socket on
each connector. These come in 10amp 116mm wide and 6 amp 94mm wide. The 10
amp is tempting but common sense says leave some spare terminals and go
for the narrower 6amp ones. Rating is 450v. All in all looks pretty handy
for swapping circuit projects. Anything else I should consider before
going ahead? Here's the ref. http://www.camdenelec.com/ Go to terminal
strips.


Those look ok to me. I would recommend paralleling 2 6A terminals for the
heater supplies and, if possible, for earth too. Also, mount a thin piece
of light-coloured plastic between the block and chassis, projecting on
the wire side. That way, if you happen to get a stray, unnoticed, stand of
wire it won't short to earth. Also, (and this is the main reason really)
you can write the terminal codes on the plastic with a cd marker.

If you are *really* cunning, you can switch the HT (sorry, wrong
country... B+) with a relay, via a shorted pair of terminals on the amp
plate. That way, if there is no amp plate then you can't get HT on the
pins. Taking it further, and adding a switch into the shorted loop, you
can switch the HT off easily. I've just built a PSU that uses a changeover
relay so that when the amp bit switches off the HT it gets discharged via
a resistor in the PSU.

--
Mick
http://www.nascom.info for Nascom & Gemini information
Also at http://www.mixtel.co.uk where the collection started.
Currently deserting M$ for linux... :-)

Edge connectors - which to use?
 

On Sun, 04 Jan 2004 18:56:50 +0000, Andy Evans wrote:

I want to join two top plates with an edge connector which is at least 12
way and preferably 15 way. Purpose - exchanging tube circuits that plug
into a basic PSU + OPT base. The connections will be up to 4 heaters for
up to two DH or IDH output tubes (say 1.6amp each for 6550), heaters for
input tubes, anode and screens, bias volts DC, B+, earth and possibly
input signal + and -. Max width is about 128mm or about 5 inch. Top plates
are 6 inch wide. The best idea I have so far is 12 way pluggable terminal
strips - like the electrical screw-fit types but with a plug and socket on
each connector. These come in 10amp 116mm wide and 6 amp 94mm wide. The 10
amp is tempting but common sense says leave some spare terminals and go
for the narrower 6amp ones. Rating is 450v. All in all looks pretty handy
for swapping circuit projects. Anything else I should consider before
going ahead? Here's the ref. http://www.camdenelec.com/ Go to terminal
strips.


Those look ok to me. I would recommend paralleling 2 6A terminals for the
heater supplies and, if possible, for earth too. Also, mount a thin piece
of light-coloured plastic between the block and chassis, projecting on
the wire side. That way, if you happen to get a stray, unnoticed, stand of
wire it won't short to earth. Also, (and this is the main reason really)
you can write the terminal codes on the plastic with a cd marker.

If you are *really* cunning, you can switch the HT (sorry, wrong
country... B+) with a relay, via a shorted pair of terminals on the amp
plate. That way, if there is no amp plate then you can't get HT on the
pins. Taking it further, and adding a switch into the shorted loop, you
can switch the HT off easily. I've just built a PSU that uses a changeover
relay so that when the amp bit switches off the HT it gets discharged via
a resistor in the PSU.

--
Mick
http://www.nascom.info for Nascom & Gemini information
Also at http://www.mixtel.co.uk where the collection started.
Currently deserting M$ for linux... :-)