Eiron wrote:

What enclosures and room do you have?
B139s need an enormous box to get decent bass.

The enclosures are the remains of the home-brews I acquired many years ago.
They're based on the KefKit3 - Concerto drivers, crossover and baffle, build
yer own boxes. About 14" deep, 2' wide, 3' high. I once calculated the
volume to be 135L. They also have a series of slots cut in the back (by the
original builder), which I think is probably a bad thing. The main speakers
are Kef Q Compacts, so the mid and top drivers in the old boxes are now
unused - they're just big reflex bass cabs, probably with added slotty mush.

The room is concrete all round apart from the ceiling, about 6x4.5m, but
with a plasterboard-walled kitchen in one corner. L-shaped in other words,
with the kitchen door permanently open. Thin carpet on the floor, big thick
rug on top, comfy couch, venetian blinds on the wide window behind. I have
plans for heavy curtains and would like to find something to put behind my
oil paintings to try and damp the walls somehow. They're quite big
paintings - 1m x 0.8m, and there's about 18mm of space behind the canvas due
to the woody things it's fitted to. They strike me as a handy place to put
some clever sound deadening panels, but I have no idea what to go for.

The long term plan for the bass speakers, when I can be arsed to get around
to it, is to rebox them in IB enclosures of around 40L, but as isobarics (I
have a second pair of drivers in a cupboard somewhere). The isobaric set up
doubles the power in the coil for a given volume and cone area, so the 40L
shouldn't be a restriction (roughly equivalent to a single driver in an 80L
cab).

Since the system is tri-amped, I shouldn't have any trouble with impedance
differences between bass and mid/top (just adjust the volume control on the
bass amp, then forget about it). I'm hoping for a cleaner, tighter bass
sound, and the ability to stay controlled at higher volumes.


--
Wally
www.wally.myby.co.uk
You're unique - just like everybody else.

Keith G wrote:

Interesting stuff, Wally.....

That DSP gizmo is, without doubt, one of the best bits of audio gear I've
bought. It has utterly transformed the bass. I'll see if I can post a pic
illustrating my current settings, which don't make the sound flat, but give
it a bit of a lift as it goes down.

One of the things I look for is the sort of bass I've experienced when
playing in bands and jamming. When the band's on song, the bass really does
fill the room - deep and smooth, something you can literally feel. Something
happens, emotionally maybe, when it gets like that. It becomes a buzz.


--
Wally
www.wally.myby.co.uk
Stress: You wake up screaming and realise you haven't fallen asleep yet.

Wally wrote:

I'll see if I can
post a pic illustrating my current settings, which don't make the
sound flat, but give it a bit of a lift as it goes down.

Here y'go - my current DSP settings.

http://audio.yachtsea.com/BassDSP.gif

Note the drop around 80Hz, and again at 25Hz. The latter is the resonant
frequency of the driver, not sure what's happening at 80 (and 63). Even with
+9dB on 20Hz, it's near impossible to pick it up, whereas there are
collywobbles at 25 and, to an extent 32. After that, it becomes much more
distinctly an audible rather than a visceral thing.

At the other end of the scale, I threw a function generator at my preamp a
few weeks ago, to see how high it went. It laughed at 100KHz, but looked
rather wayward by the time it got to 4-500KHz. It seemed to be fine at a few
hertz as well, but I can't remember when it barfed (the generator goes down
to 0.1Hz, and I got bored watching the dot slowly make its way across the
scope's display - at a guess, it was probably happy down to 4 or 5Hz). I'm
talking about amplitude of a sine wave, here - I was just look to see when
the signal got noticably attenuated. I was surprised at the HF end!


--
Wally
www.wally.myby.co.uk
Call me a saint, call me a sinner - just don't call me... late for
dinner.

"Keith G" wrote in message
...

Keith, I expect the drill chuck you require will have a 3/8" UNF female
thread in the back of it to screw on to a 3/8"UNF male shank out of the
front of the drill. 3/8" UNF is 24 threads per inch (TPI), which will likely
be displayed on the chuck as something like Bosch Keyless Chuck 1 - 10 mm -
3/8 - 24 , 10mm being the maximum bit size, 3/8 being the thread size and 24
identifing the threads per inch for attachment to the male shank.

In article ,
Keith G wrote:
If you want a genuine part here's the place I use:-

http://www.powertoolspares.com/parts...manufacturer=2



Thanks, but 'chucks' didn't leap out at me...??

You need to select the model. Click on drills (mains or cordless) and then
the model number.

--
*Do paediatricians play miniature golf on Wednesdays?

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article ,
Keith G wrote:
If you want a genuine part here's the place I use:-

http://www.powertoolspares.com/parts...manufacturer=2



Thanks, but 'chucks' didn't leap out at me...??

You need to select the model. Click on drills (mains or cordless) and then
the model number.


Er, did that Plowie...

All it came up with was a set of replacement brushes....??

"APR" wrote in message
...

"Keith G" wrote in message
...


Any idea where's the best place to get a replacement chuck for my Bosch
drill...??


I need a chuck with a 10mm (9.5?) female thread - no luck in any shops I
have been in, so far. Plenty with a 'male' thread...!!

http://www.tooled-up.com/MicroCatego...&MANUF =Bosch


Lovely - got it!!

"APR" wrote in message
...

"Keith G" wrote in message
...

Keith, I expect the drill chuck you require will have a 3/8" UNF female
thread in the back of it to screw on to a 3/8"UNF male shank out of the
front of the drill. 3/8" UNF is 24 threads per inch (TPI), which will
likely be displayed on the chuck as something like Bosch Keyless Chuck 1 -
10 mm - 3/8 - 24 , 10mm being the maximum bit size, 3/8 being the thread
size and 24 identifing the threads per inch for attachment to the male
shank.



Yes, I believe you are exactly right! I don't need a keyless chuck as such,
but I see they've got both!

I shall probably order one tomorrow - there's no sign of mine freeing off
with the WD40 and it's a bit shagged anyway. No blame, no regrets - that
drill's some serious grunting over the years!!

"Wally" wrote in message
news
Keith G wrote:

Interesting stuff, Wally.....

That DSP gizmo is, without doubt, one of the best bits of audio gear I've
bought. It has utterly transformed the bass. I'll see if I can post a pic
illustrating my current settings, which don't make the sound flat, but
give
it a bit of a lift as it goes down.

One of the things I look for is the sort of bass I've experienced when
playing in bands and jamming. When the band's on song, the bass really
does
fill the room - deep and smooth, something you can literally feel.
Something
happens, emotionally maybe, when it gets like that. It becomes a buzz.



Yes indeed - there's the music, then (dare I say it?) there's the 'sound of
music'!!

When people ask me do I listen to the music or the kit, the answer's *both*
but not necessarily at one and the same time!!

;-)

Wally wrote:

Eiron wrote:


What enclosures and room do you have?
B139s need an enormous box to get decent bass.


The enclosures are the remains of the home-brews I acquired many years ago.
They're based on the KefKit3 - Concerto drivers, crossover and baffle, build
yer own boxes. About 14" deep, 2' wide, 3' high. I once calculated the
volume to be 135L. They also have a series of slots cut in the back (by the
original builder), which I think is probably a bad thing. The main speakers
are Kef Q Compacts, so the mid and top drivers in the old boxes are now
unused - they're just big reflex bass cabs, probably with added slotty mush.

The cabinets are the right size. Don't know how you tune the slots in the rear.
Not that it matters if you have a DSP to equalize the bass.

--
Eiron

No good deed ever goes unpunished.