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Connecting subwoofers to a 2-channel audio amp.
Keith G wrote:
"Serge Auckland" wrote in message ... Eeyore wrote: Don Pearce wrote: I would add that finding an ideal position for one sub is hard, and right positions for two are near enough impossible. Provided there is very little distortion and the crossover frequency is sensible, there is no benefit to having a pair of subs - you can't locate the sound anyway. Oh yes you can ! That's just an old wives' tale. Graham I'm not so sure. I did some tests a couple of months ago after reading that in the early days of stereo, Philips reckoned that anything below 200 Hz was non-directional, and consequently, a sub and two satellites was perfectly acceptable for stereo. EMI insisted on two full-range loudspeakers. Using sine waves into left only, right only or equally into both, below 220 Hz it was increasingly difficult to decide which was playing, and impossible below 150 Hz. That of course is in my room, and other rooms may be different. However, when using a single subwoofer located to the right of the right-hand 'speaker and with a crossover of 70Hz, it was disturbing to hear the extreme bass separate from the 'speakers, possibly as a result of hearing harmonics from the sub. The disturbing effect went away when the sub was positioned between the main 'speakers. I currently use two subs to fill in the bottom half-octave below my main 'speakers, and I have them located as close as possible to the mains to create effectively a pair of larger 'speakers. Works for me. This is interesting. This very thread has prompted me to set the 'sub ball' rolling (finally) and I've scrounged a sub to play with for a few days: http://www.apah69.dsl.pipex.com/show/subbie2.JPG http://www.apah69.dsl.pipex.com/show/subbie3.JPG ...with a view to building one (or one like it) and am considering these atm: http://www.bkelec.com/HiFi/Sub_Woofers.htm http://www.iplacoustics.co.uk/SW5%20...0subwoofer.htm ..unless anyone knows better? But my point is that there is no way of locating the single sub by ear in my small room and, as the sub in the photos (BK Electronics) has a *variable* phase adjustment between 0 and 180 deg, is there not a danger of phase cancellation with two subs, given that they seem to need a lot of adjustment and faffing with to suit the various different types of music....?? IOW, is a pair of subs a possible complication that might be best *not* bothered with....?? Should work wonderfully well using one of your 4W SETs............ Seriously, in your room, a single sub should be more than ample. As to phasing, I really don't understand the point of a variable phase control. 0 & 180 switched should be provided to phase up the sub with the mains (which hopefully will be in phase with each other), but apart from that, I can't see it's possible to match the phase of the main LF, as it will be frequency dependant. As you suggest, with two subs, trying to get the phase right would be a nightmare. Other controls needed are a crossover frequency selector and a level control. Ideally, if the main speakers are small (say don't go below 70Hz) then the extreme bass should be rolled-off to the mains considerably improving their power handling and lowering distortion. S. |
Connecting subwoofers to a 2-channel audio amp.
Roy wrote:
Phil Allison wrote: "Kalman Rubinson = Brainless Pile of Kike **** " Not exactly. What your friend needs is 1 or 2 subs with a speaker-level crossover. Then, he can connect the main amp outputs to the sub(s) and then connect the main L/R speakers to the crossover outputs on the subs. Thus, the crossovers will divide the frequency spectrum appropriately. ** No such passive sub x-over * really * exists - you PITA ****wit. Well that's EXACTLY how my Harbeth subs work. Now who's brainless, gob****e? Which model of Harbeth subwoofer do you have? -- Eiron. |
Connecting subwoofers to a 2-channel audio amp.
Guys,
I am not sure if Whatmough sub's are available in UK. I strongly suggest having a look at them. Its not the patriotic Aussie in me blantantly favoring it, but they are really good. I have used their entire range of speakers for almost 6 years now. Here is the configuration for the Tornado range I own - Configuration 1x300mm (12") cellulose fibre cone with a very long throw suspension. This driver has a rubber surround and high temperature voice coil. Enclosure 25mm thick cabinet walls, fully braced bass enclosure with bass reflex loading. Amplifier 240 Watts continuous power output. Line and speaker level outputs and inputs. Auto on/off switch. Thermal output protection. Continuously variable gain (volume) control. Electronic low-pass crossover from 40 to 160Hz. Bass Extension 22Hz -3dB, usable bass to well below 20Hz Average levels of 50 Watts. Dimensions 500H x 470W x 570D mm. Weight 30kg Finish Bubinga real wood veneer More information on their entire range is available on - http://whatmough-whise.com/subwoofers.htm I had the pleasure to meet up with the chief designer of the Impulse range and understand the philosophy behind the design. Bloody awesome. Cheers Max Keith G wrote: "Serge Auckland" wrote in message ... Eeyore wrote: Don Pearce wrote: I would add that finding an ideal position for one sub is hard, and right positions for two are near enough impossible. Provided there is very little distortion and the crossover frequency is sensible, there is no benefit to having a pair of subs - you can't locate the sound anyway. Oh yes you can ! That's just an old wives' tale. Graham I'm not so sure. I did some tests a couple of months ago after reading that in the early days of stereo, Philips reckoned that anything below 200 Hz was non-directional, and consequently, a sub and two satellites was perfectly acceptable for stereo. EMI insisted on two full-range loudspeakers. Using sine waves into left only, right only or equally into both, below 220 Hz it was increasingly difficult to decide which was playing, and impossible below 150 Hz. That of course is in my room, and other rooms may be different. However, when using a single subwoofer located to the right of the right-hand 'speaker and with a crossover of 70Hz, it was disturbing to hear the extreme bass separate from the 'speakers, possibly as a result of hearing harmonics from the sub. The disturbing effect went away when the sub was positioned between the main 'speakers. I currently use two subs to fill in the bottom half-octave below my main 'speakers, and I have them located as close as possible to the mains to create effectively a pair of larger 'speakers. Works for me. This is interesting. This very thread has prompted me to set the 'sub ball' rolling (finally) and I've scrounged a sub to play with for a few days: http://www.apah69.dsl.pipex.com/show/subbie2.JPG http://www.apah69.dsl.pipex.com/show/subbie3.JPG ...with a view to building one (or one like it) and am considering these atm: http://www.bkelec.com/HiFi/Sub_Woofers.htm http://www.iplacoustics.co.uk/SW5%20...0subwoofer.htm ..unless anyone knows better? But my point is that there is no way of locating the single sub by ear in my small room and, as the sub in the photos (BK Electronics) has a *variable* phase adjustment between 0 and 180 deg, is there not a danger of phase cancellation with two subs, given that they seem to need a lot of adjustment and faffing with to suit the various different types of music....?? IOW, is a pair of subs a possible complication that might be best *not* bothered with....?? |
Connecting subwoofers to a 2-channel audio amp.
correction ... i own the Typhoon range more information is available on
- http://www.pymblehifi.com.au/Whatmough%20Subwoofers.htm max graff wrote: Guys, I am not sure if Whatmough sub's are available in UK. I strongly suggest having a look at them. Its not the patriotic Aussie in me blantantly favoring it, but they are really good. I have used their entire range of speakers for almost 6 years now. Here is the configuration for the Tornado range I own - Configuration 1x300mm (12") cellulose fibre cone with a very long throw suspension. This driver has a rubber surround and high temperature voice coil. Enclosure 25mm thick cabinet walls, fully braced bass enclosure with bass reflex loading. Amplifier 240 Watts continuous power output. Line and speaker level outputs and inputs. Auto on/off switch. Thermal output protection. Continuously variable gain (volume) control. Electronic low-pass crossover from 40 to 160Hz. Bass Extension 22Hz -3dB, usable bass to well below 20Hz Average levels of 50 Watts. Dimensions 500H x 470W x 570D mm. Weight 30kg Finish Bubinga real wood veneer More information on their entire range is available on - http://whatmough-whise.com/subwoofers.htm I had the pleasure to meet up with the chief designer of the Impulse range and understand the philosophy behind the design. Bloody awesome. Cheers Max Keith G wrote: "Serge Auckland" wrote in message ... Eeyore wrote: Don Pearce wrote: I would add that finding an ideal position for one sub is hard, and right positions for two are near enough impossible. Provided there is very little distortion and the crossover frequency is sensible, there is no benefit to having a pair of subs - you can't locate the sound anyway. Oh yes you can ! That's just an old wives' tale. Graham I'm not so sure. I did some tests a couple of months ago after reading that in the early days of stereo, Philips reckoned that anything below 200 Hz was non-directional, and consequently, a sub and two satellites was perfectly acceptable for stereo. EMI insisted on two full-range loudspeakers. Using sine waves into left only, right only or equally into both, below 220 Hz it was increasingly difficult to decide which was playing, and impossible below 150 Hz. That of course is in my room, and other rooms may be different. However, when using a single subwoofer located to the right of the right-hand 'speaker and with a crossover of 70Hz, it was disturbing to hear the extreme bass separate from the 'speakers, possibly as a result of hearing harmonics from the sub. The disturbing effect went away when the sub was positioned between the main 'speakers. I currently use two subs to fill in the bottom half-octave below my main 'speakers, and I have them located as close as possible to the mains to create effectively a pair of larger 'speakers. Works for me. This is interesting. This very thread has prompted me to set the 'sub ball' rolling (finally) and I've scrounged a sub to play with for a few days: http://www.apah69.dsl.pipex.com/show/subbie2.JPG http://www.apah69.dsl.pipex.com/show/subbie3.JPG ...with a view to building one (or one like it) and am considering these atm: http://www.bkelec.com/HiFi/Sub_Woofers.htm http://www.iplacoustics.co.uk/SW5%20...0subwoofer.htm ..unless anyone knows better? But my point is that there is no way of locating the single sub by ear in my small room and, as the sub in the photos (BK Electronics) has a *variable* phase adjustment between 0 and 180 deg, is there not a danger of phase cancellation with two subs, given that they seem to need a lot of adjustment and faffing with to suit the various different types of music....?? IOW, is a pair of subs a possible complication that might be best *not* bothered with....?? |
Connecting subwoofers to a 2-channel audio amp.
Posts like this do not deserve any response but, in the small
possibility that someone takes him seriously, I will add that there are several powered subwoofers which (1)take speaker-level inputs, (2)have a passive speaker-level crossover, (3)feed the high-pass output to terminals for the left/right speakers and, (4)via a resistive network, pass the LP output to the built-in power amp and subwoofer driver. Kal On Sat, 13 Jan 2007 01:15:54 +1100, "Phil Allison" wrote: "Kalman Rubinson = Brainless Pile of Kike **** " Not exactly. What your friend needs is 1 or 2 subs with a speaker-level crossover. Then, he can connect the main amp outputs to the sub(s) and then connect the main L/R speakers to the crossover outputs on the subs. Thus, the crossovers will divide the frequency spectrum appropriately. ** No such passive sub x-over * really * exists - you PITA ****wit. Any specs or web pages that suggest otherwise a total FICTION !! For this, I prefer powered (built-in amp) subs so that they do not draw any significant power from the main amp ** Which UTTERLY contradicts your previous para. APPARENTLY: There is absolutely no upper limit to the * asinine ***** that know nothing poseurs like this cretin will attempt promulgate. But I am more than happy to stick a giant spanner in the dumb ****'s works. ........ Phil |
Connecting subwoofers to a 2-channel audio amp.
Kalman Rubinson wrote:
Posts like this do not deserve any response but, in the small possibility that someone takes him seriously, I will add that there are several powered subwoofers which (1)take speaker-level inputs, (2)have a passive speaker-level crossover, (3)feed the high-pass output to terminals for the left/right speakers and, (4)via a resistive network, pass the LP output to the built-in power amp and subwoofer driver. I think you will find that they 1) take speaker-level inputs 2) which are directly connected to terminals for the left/right speakers 3) via a resistive network, combine L+R and feed it to an electronic LP filter and thence to the built-in power amp and subwoofer driver. Please feel free to give an example of one that works your way. -- Eiron. |
Connecting subwoofers to a 2-channel audio amp.
"Serge Auckland" wrote in message ... Keith G wrote: IOW, is a pair of subs a possible complication that might be best *not* bothered with....?? Should work wonderfully well using one of your 4W SETs............ Well, on my *8W* SET/InFidelios the results are astounding - 'listening' by leaning my head back against the (drywall partition) wall, the bass from Bjork's 'Headphones' without the sub rattles my head anyway. With the sub though, it is not really bearable for long and quite queasy but there is some 'wuffa wuffa wuffa' roll-off after a seriously deep bit! Interestingly, the bass with the sub doesn't actually really sound any deeper than the speakers on their own, only *feels* it...!! More, much more, to do yet - mebbe even some recording comparisons.... Seriously, in your room, a single sub should be more than ample. Sure, I don't think I could stand more than the one!! As to phasing, I really don't understand the point of a variable phase control. 0 & 180 switched should be provided to phase up the sub with the mains (which hopefully will be in phase with each other), but apart from that, I can't see it's possible to match the phase of the main LF, as it will be frequency dependant. As you suggest, with two subs, trying to get the phase right would be a nightmare. I've twiddled it back and forth and can't say it makes a lot of difference anyway and it ends up back at 0 deg! Other controls needed are a crossover frequency selector and a level control. Ideally, if the main speakers are small (say don't go below 70Hz) then the extreme bass should be rolled-off to the mains considerably improving their power handling and lowering distortion. Not sure I understood that....?? |
Connecting subwoofers to a 2-channel audio amp.
"Keith G" wrote Well, on my *8W* SET/InFidelios the results are astounding - 'listening' by leaning my head back against the (drywall partition) wall, the bass from Bjork's 'Headphones' without the sub rattles my head anyway. With the sub though, it is not really bearable for long and quite queasy but there is some 'wuffa wuffa wuffa' roll-off after a seriously deep bit! Interestingly, the bass with the sub doesn't actually really sound any deeper than the speakers on their own, only *feels* it...!! More, much more, to do yet - mebbe even some recording comparisons.... Footnote: Swim has been subjected to brief snatches of extreme bass on a with/without sub basis throughout the evening. I have just asked her for a snap answer to the 'Do I need a sub?' question! Immediate answer - 'Nope'..... ?? ? |
Connecting subwoofers to a 2-channel audio amp.
"Roy" Well that's EXACTLY how my Harbeth subs work. ** You have totally failed to take account of the context - ****wit. ........ Phil |
Connecting subwoofers to a 2-channel audio amp.
"Kalman Rubinson ****ing MORON " Posts like this do not deserve any response but, in the small possibility that someone takes him seriously, ** I am ABSOLUTELY RIGHT !! YOU are know nothing, brain dead audiophool arsehole. I will add that there are several powered subwoofers which (1)take speaker-level inputs, (2)have a passive speaker-level crossover, ** No they do not. Ever pulled one apart to see what is ACTUALLY fitted inside?? Their maker's lie. ......... Phil |
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