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Record Cleaning Machines
I've 10,000+ LPs - but no RCM. Maybe I should have - but..~5mins to
clean each LP....?? For just 50 LPs there's An Alternative. Ignoring the prospect that your Iso-Alcohol formulations haven't led to permanent crackles - and assuming that the 70/80s material is 'Pop' then you could play them WET - the LP side could be re-wetted when transcribing tracks if the surface dried out. Although I'd not do the above, it's a safe bet that you'll potentially get a silent backgound - even more so if you cleaned the LP beforehand with a water/detergent solution -"Morning Fresh" 'Wildflower Melody' (Mauve..) is pretty OK - no citric acid, I suspect..rinse under running lukewarm water (if you're adept you can get an immediately dry surface using that method..). Wet-playing is well known to have some advantages - and, for your application, might well be the answer. |
Record Cleaning Machines
"Dave Matthews" wrote in message ... "Keith G" wrote in message ... Thanks for the info, Keith... The Moth RCM (which I have) Woah - the granddaddy of them all! uses a vacuum cleaner motor but it is far noisier than a vacuum cleaner - due to being closer to your ears than a vacuum cleaner normally is, if nothing else.! I would certainly advise ear defenders if you were going to do a lot or if you were going to listen to them immediately after cleaning them!! Good point. And I guess that with a vacuum cleaner, the carpet will soak up a lot of the noise. That all said, there is nothing like a nice, clean, *shiny liquorice* record - enhances the whole experience of vinyl and is well worth the effort/inconvenience in my book!! But was it worth the money....? :-) Beyond doubt! (A sine qua non in my book!!) I guess the cost per record for me is in the order of 10p each so far. When you can find a shop that actually *will* do them, it's usually about 1.50 ea and a maximum of 10 at a time. (It really is mind-numbingly boring after 3 or 4 of them!) I mix my own juice (DW and Isoprop at 4:1) which works out about 70p/lt - (from 25lt and 5 lt containers respectively) - not the 15 quid a litre that *someone* might charge!! Anyway, I wouldn't be without mine - despite that it's fallen to bits once, been fixed by Mr Moth (Mike Harris) himself and looks like it's going to need fixing again! |
Record Cleaning Machines
"Keith G" wrote in message
... I guess the cost per record for me is in the order of 10p each so far. When you can find a shop that actually *will* do them, it's usually about 1.50 ea and a maximum of 10 at a time. (It really is mind-numbingly boring after 3 or 4 of them!) That's a bargain when I consider how much time it could save me in terms of attempting (probably unsuccessfully) to to a post-transcription "digital clean-up". Anyway, I wouldn't be without mine - despite that it's fallen to bits once, been fixed by Mr Moth (Mike Harris) himself and looks like it's going to need fixing again! Well "granddaddies" reserve the right to be a bit decrepit! -- Cheers, Dave |
Record Cleaning Machines
"frankwm" wrote in message
ups.com... I've 10,000+ LPs - but no RCM. Maybe I should have - but..~5mins to clean each LP....?? For just 50 LPs there's An Alternative. Ignoring the prospect that your Iso-Alcohol formulations haven't led to permanent crackles - and assuming that the 70/80s material is 'Pop' then you could play them WET - the LP side could be re-wetted when transcribing tracks if the surface dried out. Although I'd not do the above, it's a safe bet that you'll potentially get a silent backgound - even more so if you cleaned the LP beforehand with a water/detergent solution -"Morning Fresh" 'Wildflower Melody' (Mauve..) is pretty OK - no citric acid, I suspect..rinse under running lukewarm water (if you're adept you can get an immediately dry surface using that method..). Wet-playing is well known to have some advantages - and, for your application, might well be the answer. Thanks for the suggestion! I've just tried that on one of the really poor LPs (one that I'm not bothered about, I hasten to add) and it made an amazing difference - other than the occasional crackle, the background noise was near-absent, compared to previous attempts on it with cleaning but allowing it to dry. I assume that I should ideally use distilled water for wet-playing? -- Cheers, Dave |
Record Cleaning Machines
"Dave Matthews" wrote in message ... "Keith G" wrote in message ... I guess the cost per record for me is in the order of 10p each so far. When you can find a shop that actually *will* do them, it's usually about 1.50 ea and a maximum of 10 at a time. (It really is mind-numbingly boring after 3 or 4 of them!) That's a bargain when I consider how much time it could save me in terms of attempting (probably unsuccessfully) to to a post-transcription "digital clean-up". The cleaning of a record won't necessarily remove all the artifacts that some people don't want with vinyl. I never use 'digital clean-up' methods myself, in fact I usually do absolutely nothing with a transcription - what doesn't bother me with a record isn't going to bother me with the 'digitised' version!! I might take a loud pop out here and there, but always 'by hand' in Sound Forge! Anyway, I wouldn't be without mine - despite that it's fallen to bits once, been fixed by Mr Moth (Mike Harris) himself and looks like it's going to need fixing again! Well "granddaddies" reserve the right to be a bit decrepit! It's not a big thing, but it is awkward - the 'turntable' goes a bit wobbly and tries to 'cam' itself off the drive shaft! The problem stems from the whole thing being just a little bit *too powerful* - the vacuum is so fierce the record clamp has to be screwed on very tight to prevent the record being 'seized' (I use paper washers to preserve the labels), screwing it up so tight places a lot of strain on the grubscrew, which starts to slip: http://www.apah69.dsl.pipex.com/show/driveshaft.JPG So you tighten it up and it cuts just a little deeper....!! ;-) Remember though - this is after *thousands* of records and my impatient, hamfisted 'wringing it against the rotation' method to do up and undo the (screw on) clamp! |
Record Cleaning Machines
Dave Matthews wrote:
"frankwm" wrote in message ups.com... I've 10,000+ LPs - but no RCM. Maybe I should have - but..~5mins to clean each LP....?? For just 50 LPs there's An Alternative. Ignoring the prospect that your Iso-Alcohol formulations haven't led to permanent crackles - and assuming that the 70/80s material is 'Pop' then you could play them WET - the LP side could be re-wetted when transcribing tracks if the surface dried out. Although I'd not do the above, it's a safe bet that you'll potentially get a silent backgound - even more so if you cleaned the LP beforehand with a water/detergent solution -"Morning Fresh" 'Wildflower Melody' (Mauve..) is pretty OK - no citric acid, I suspect..rinse under running lukewarm water (if you're adept you can get an immediately dry surface using that method..). Wet-playing is well known to have some advantages - and, for your application, might well be the answer. Thanks for the suggestion! I've just tried that on one of the really poor LPs (one that I'm not bothered about, I hasten to add) and it made an amazing difference - other than the occasional crackle, the background noise was near-absent, compared to previous attempts on it with cleaning but allowing it to dry. I assume that I should ideally use distilled water for wet-playing? Doesn't the sound alter, I would have thought it would have 'dampened' the higher frequencies? Perhaps if you did it with a touch of detergent and distilled (not dionised) watee then thoughly rinsed them you'd clean them quite effectively? |
Record Cleaning Machines
jasee wrote:
Perhaps if you did it with a touch of detergent and distilled (not dionised) watee then thoughly rinsed them you'd clean them quite effectively? What's the difference between distilled and de-ionized water? I thought both methods just left H2O. Anyway, it's the rinse water that should be pure, not necessarily the cleaning solution. -- Eiron. |
Record Cleaning Machines
You don't mention whether you've simply 'wet-played' - or combined
that with a detergent clean. The fact you reduced the 'battleground effects' indicates that your Iso-Alcohol method was leaving behind residues. The 'crackle' may well be 'permanent' as Alcohol will damage the vinyl - even with just one 'clean'...this is my experience (shudder) The method following is 'mine' - & on an initially 'totally noise-free disc' will create no deterioration whatsoever. It relies on through-cleaning - and no 'cross-contamination' (as on commercial RCM's) from disc-to-disc using shared 'brushes' for solution application - or 'pads' leaving residue/contamination behind in the non-vacuum types. 1x Plush Velvet cleaning pad (ie type seen in those feeble Carbon- Fibre cleaners with the centre pad) - I once used the old 'Emitex' cloth...the Milty DuoPad will also do the job - although the material eventually comes adrift from the foam base. Detergent - as above. 1: Damp pad and clean-off both LP sides. Rinsing pad. 2: Apply detergent to pad - small amount. 3: Holding LP with one hand against body (it's not really a good idea to use the TT..) clean in 4-5 'sectors' half-dozen times - then, when the foam has built up - in just 3 sectors. Rinse off pad - do other side. You can apply quite a degree of pressure without damage. 4: Prior to detergent removal 'even up' the solution by one 'swish' round the LP side. 5: You (preferably) need a fine stream of lukewarm water from the tap. Hold the LP under the stream - which should 'land' on the dead-wax area - to the RH side and you'll see the detergent being washed away - with 1970s vinyl it quickly forms an 'edge' and rotating the LP anti- clockwise (ensuring water/detergent is not passed onto the LP from your Pinkies - it can be done..) carry that edge all the way back to your start-point...then lift the LP up - moving the water stream the LP edge - then remove. The LP should be bone-dry You can continue the above method to complete a second revolution - as, depending on water velocity/ detergent/rotation speed you could leave behind a slight detergent trace - though the LP would appear dry. Using this method there should be no need to wet-play the LP's - so the question of 'distilled water' doesn't arise. What wet-playing does is to put existing contaminants 'into suspension' - hence reduced background noise. |
Record Cleaning Machines
"Eiron" wrote in message ... jasee wrote: Perhaps if you did it with a touch of detergent and distilled (not dionised) watee then thoughly rinsed them you'd clean them quite effectively? What's the difference between distilled and de-ionized water? I thought both methods just left H2O. Anyway, it's the rinse water that should be pure, not necessarily the cleaning solution. Distilled water doesn't contain anything else but H20 so is a better solvent and shouldn't leave any residues at all. It's theoretically possible that there could be non ionic impurities in deionised water: I always use distilled for cleaning camera lenses for example.. |
Record Cleaning Machines
"Keith G" wrote in message
... The cleaning of a record won't necessarily remove all the artifacts that some people don't want with vinyl. I never use 'digital clean-up' methods myself, in fact I usually do absolutely nothing with a transcription - what doesn't bother me with a record isn't going to bother me with the 'digitised' version!! Well I've had 20 years of the "luxury" of CDs! When I started getting my old LPs out of the loft a few months back, I found it quite a shock listening to them in terms of surface noise alone - even the pristine ones. I might take a loud pop out here and there, but always 'by hand' in Sound Forge! Indeed - I do all my clean-ups by hand - automated methods never work satisfactorily. http://www.apah69.dsl.pipex.com/show/driveshaft.JPG That's scary! -- Cheers, Dave |
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