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On Sun, 04 Nov 2007 23:04:29 +0000, Ian Thompson-Bell wrote:

mick wrote:
On Sun, 04 Nov 2007 20:33:02 +0000, Ian Thompson-Bell wrote:

snip
Do you remember the Ediswan 'top hat' transistors. Little black things
with a ring round them that made them look like a miniature top hat.



I think I might still have one or two of those... They were common in
early logic gear. You could also get them in a grey, unpainted metal.


I have a tin of old transistors I collected over the years and I have
one in there an XA101.

How about the flat, rectangular "gold" cans? I don't know who made
them, Newmarket, I think. Green & yellow spots indicated AF and red &
white spots indicated RF.


Weren't they the ones used by Clive Sinclair in his matchbox size radio
- Micro Alloy Transistors (MAT) IIRC?



IIRC they looked a bit like a domed ended AC127, but smaller (with a
sealing flange round them). I'm not sure - it's just that I seem to
remember seeing a photo in an advert.

--
Mick (Working in a M$-free zone!)
Web: http://www.nascom.info http://mixpix.batcave.net

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On Nov 4, 2:33 pm, Ian Thompson-Bell wrote:

Do you remember the Ediswan 'top hat' transistors. Little black things
with a ring round them that made them look like a miniature top hat.

Ian

I've got a stash of those top-hat looking devices, 2N170 and 2N170 I
believe. The 2N170's have the top-hat look but are oval shaped;
whereas the 2N107s are round.

Ernst

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Ian Thompson-Bell wrote:
Don Pearce wrote:

The piece of wood is actually a pretty good idea, as it allows you to
manage your grounds properly, something it is much harder to do when
everything is bolted to a chassis.


After an evenings surfing I came across this little gem:

http://www.duntemann.com/radiogallery.htm

I have just order some single sided boards and a mini drill from Maplin.

Cheers

Ian

I got some copper clad SRBP and a mini-drill and made myself some
prototyping boards along the lines of the above URL. Here are a couple
of pics:

http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m...ds/dualb7g.jpg

http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m.../singleb7g.jpg

Cheers

Ian

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On Fri, 09 Nov 2007 22:18:26 +0000, Ian Thompson-Bell
wrote:

Ian Thompson-Bell wrote:
Don Pearce wrote:

The piece of wood is actually a pretty good idea, as it allows you to
manage your grounds properly, something it is much harder to do when
everything is bolted to a chassis.


After an evenings surfing I came across this little gem:

http://www.duntemann.com/radiogallery.htm

I have just order some single sided boards and a mini drill from Maplin.

Cheers

Ian

I got some copper clad SRBP and a mini-drill and made myself some
prototyping boards along the lines of the above URL. Here are a couple
of pics:

http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m...ds/dualb7g.jpg

http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m.../singleb7g.jpg

Cheers

Ian

There is an easier and tidier way to make straight gaps on PCB
material.

Using a scalpel or a Kraft knife, cut through the copper on both sides
of the line. Then starting at one end, melt a little solder onto the
bit you want to remove. If you do this at the end you will be able to
lift the copper there with the tip of a blade. Now run the soldering
iron steadily along the piece you are removing, lifting it with a pair
of pliers as you go along.

You can do this really quickly with a bit of practice.

d

--
Pearce Consulting
http://www.pearce.uk.com

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Don Pearce wrote:
On Fri, 09 Nov 2007 22:18:26 +0000, Ian Thompson-Bell
wrote:

Ian Thompson-Bell wrote:
Don Pearce wrote:
The piece of wood is actually a pretty good idea, as it allows you to
manage your grounds properly, something it is much harder to do when
everything is bolted to a chassis.

After an evenings surfing I came across this little gem:

http://www.duntemann.com/radiogallery.htm

I have just order some single sided boards and a mini drill from Maplin.

Cheers

Ian
I got some copper clad SRBP and a mini-drill and made myself some
prototyping boards along the lines of the above URL. Here are a couple
of pics:

http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m...ds/dualb7g.jpg

http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m.../singleb7g.jpg

Cheers

Ian

There is an easier and tidier way to make straight gaps on PCB
material.

Using a scalpel or a Kraft knife, cut through the copper on both sides
of the line. Then starting at one end, melt a little solder onto the
bit you want to remove. If you do this at the end you will be able to
lift the copper there with the tip of a blade. Now run the soldering
iron steadily along the piece you are removing, lifting it with a pair
of pliers as you go along.

You can do this really quickly with a bit of practice.

d


Tanks, I'll try that. The current method is rather laborious, noisy and
does not give a particularly neat result.

Cheers

Ian