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XO help wanted.
Hi. I've been reading here a while but not posting so much. It's mostly
above me but I'm trying to learn.... I have a problem, forgive me if this is the wrong forum in which to ask for help. However I feel that I'm quite a way away from being able to sort it out myself (although I do have a budget LCR meter that just arrived from Hong Kong). I have some small two-way speakers that I'm quite partial to. I don't run them full range however, having a Jamo 4th-order isobarik passive sub, 8 ohm nominal (with a large inductor in series with each driver and a 72uF / 50V capacitor in series with the 'satellites out' terminals. I guesstimate that it's passing around 210Hz and above? From the sound of it it's going down to a bit below 100Hz, perhaps as low as 80Hz. I have a 12" Klipsch powered sub set to 70Hz and lower, after experiementing, that seems about right. (I don't like the Klipsch running much higher as I find it sounds a bit 'boomy' approaching 100Hz, and above.) The 2-ways have always sounded a bit 'confused' at the high-mid to low high range (if you'll excuse the terminology). I don't notice it often but when I do it bugs me. Recently I had cause to pull the XOs out (connected to the terminal block) and I see that the 4" 'woofer' is being run full-range. There was a 3.3uF electro cap in series with the tweeter (which I replaced with a polyprop unit, the XO PCB was stenciled and drilled for both) there is also a fine-wired, air-core inductor in parallel with it. I would very much like to put a simple low-pass filter on the woofer, with the cut-off point the same (or as close as possible) as that of the high-pass circuit on the tweeter. However, other than the woofer being 3.6 Ohm and the tweeter being 8 Ohm (boxes rated at 4 Ohm) I know nothing about them. They're small Philips units, quasi-ribbon tweeters, well finished with a good rose-wood veneer and I bought them at auction. Any and all help appreciated. TIA, -- Shaun. "Humans will have advanced a long, long, way when religious belief has a cozy little classification in the DSM." David Melville (in r.a.s.f1) |
XO help wanted.
In article , ~misfit~
wrote: Hi. I've been reading here a while but not posting so much. It's mostly above me but I'm trying to learn.... I have a problem, forgive me if this is the wrong forum in which to ask for help. However I feel that I'm quite a way away from being able to sort it out myself (although I do have a budget LCR meter that just arrived from Hong Kong). I would very much like to put a simple low-pass filter on the woofer, with the cut-off point the same (or as close as possible) as that of the high-pass circuit on the tweeter. However, other than the woofer being 3.6 Ohm and the tweeter being 8 Ohm (boxes rated at 4 Ohm) I know nothing about them. They're small Philips units, quasi-ribbon tweeters, well finished with a good rose-wood veneer and I bought them at auction. Ideally, you'd equip yourself and be able to do some basic measurements. But you could experiment 'by ear' if willing to spend some time doing so. What I can't say is if this would be worth the effort instead of replacing the speakers entirely. Experiments may not yield a satisfactory result if the speaker units aren't good enough to be 'improved' by such tweaks. Or if a simple crossover isn't up to the job. Lacking measurements or experience, trying what you propose may involve a lot of trial and error without ending up getting a good return! Does you have a meter that gives a reliable AC voltage measurement that doesn't vary much with frequency across the band from about 50Hz up to a few kHz? If so, it could help you experiment. (I'm not sure if your "LCR meter" also measures voltages.) The problem with an LCR meter is that it may just do this at one frequency, and not give a useful results for L/C/R for something that has complex behaviour. Going that route you may really need to be able to check the impedance at various frequencies. Assuming you can measure AC voltages... To test the meter, you could connect it as a voltmeter to measure the output of your power amp and play some test tones from a CD, say, see if the reading for the voltage stays steady as you change frequency. However note that a cheap multimeter may only give sensible AC voltage readings for 50-60Hz. By ear or by meter, the simple way to experiment is to try putting something like an inductor in series with the woofer. Lacking measurements you'd have to guess what may be the right value for inductance. Then listen (and/or measure the effect on the ac voltage at the woofer) to decide what effect it has had. Use that to decide if a bigger or smaller inductance might be worth trying. Repeat until happy or exhausted. :-) Lacking measurements you can 'guess' the speaker impedance is around 10 Ohms, then choose an inductor value on that basis. Chances are, the guess will be wrong and the actual impedance is higher. However you can then cheaply try connecting a resistor *across* the woofer terminals to pull down the impedance at the roll-away point. Then experiment with resistors - cheaper than trying different inductors. But avoid choosing a value that is too low as the amp may not like the loading. For real use you'd need an inductor that can handle high enough currents and with a very low series resistance. But to save cost you could experiment first with cheaper low-current inductors. Or even 'wind your own'. Beyond that, I suspect others can give you more detailed advice, and may have experience of speaking building, etc. Slainte, Jim -- Please use the address on the audiomisc page if you wish to email me. Electronics http://www.st-and.ac.uk/~www_pa/Scot...o/electron.htm Armstrong Audio http://www.audiomisc.co.uk/Armstrong/armstrong.html Audio Misc http://www.audiomisc.co.uk/index.html |
XO help wanted.
"~misfit~" ** In the world of electronics, "XO" = crystal oscillator. In the world of loudspeakers, the term "crossover" is often shortened to X-over. On internet forums, just about anything goes... ..... Phil |
XO help wanted.
Somewhere on teh intarwebs Phil Allison wrote:
"~misfit~" ** In the world of electronics, "XO" = crystal oscillator. In the world of loudspeakers, the term "crossover" is often shortened to X-over. Thanks Phil, I believe I mentioned that I was on the low-end of the learning-curve? ;-) On internet forums, just about anything goes... Indeed. However it's easiest if we're all speaking the same language yes? Heh, your surname remined me that I must get around to doing *something* with the boxes containing all 12 drivers from a set of Allison Ones (January 1978) that I have in the back room. They've been there for years and I never did get around to doing anything with them. Cheers, -- Shaun. "Humans will have advanced a long, long, way when religious belief has a cozy little classification in the DSM." David Melville (in r.a.s.f1) |
XO help wanted.
Somewhere on teh intarwebs Jim Lesurf wrote:
In article , ~misfit~ wrote: Hi. I've been reading here a while but not posting so much. It's mostly above me but I'm trying to learn.... I have a problem, forgive me if this is the wrong forum in which to ask for help. However I feel that I'm quite a way away from being able to sort it out myself (although I do have a budget LCR meter that just arrived from Hong Kong). I would very much like to put a simple low-pass filter on the woofer, with the cut-off point the same (or as close as possible) as that of the high-pass circuit on the tweeter. However, other than the woofer being 3.6 Ohm and the tweeter being 8 Ohm (boxes rated at 4 Ohm) I know nothing about them. They're small Philips units, quasi-ribbon tweeters, well finished with a good rose-wood veneer and I bought them at auction. Ideally, you'd equip yourself and be able to do some basic measurements. Indeed. I'm trying to find downloads of any good freeware that I can use. However, circumstances have left me an invalid, having lost my home and business, with only welfare as an income, and a few remnants of my audio gear. So, as I have little to no spending money I'm trying to get the best listening experience that I can from what I have. Hence the question and the attempt at learning as much as I can. Sadly opioid painkillers rob me of a large chunk of my ability to learn, to form memories. I used to learn as easy as pie. I graduated two years younger than my class-mates... Now I feel like a dunce sometimes. :-/ But you could experiment 'by ear' if willing to spend some time doing so. What I can't say is if this would be worth the effort instead of replacing the speakers entirely. Not really an option, see above. Experiments may not yield a satisfactory result if the speaker units aren't good enough to be 'improved' by such tweaks. Or if a simple crossover isn't up to the job. Lacking measurements or experience, trying what you propose may involve a lot of trial and error without ending up getting a good return! Frankly I was rather hoping there was maybe a software tool that I could enter the values of what's already in the boxes, the drivers and high-pass circuit and get some idea of where the high-pass point is and what components I would need to build a low-pass for the woofer that works at the same point. Does you have a meter that gives a reliable AC voltage measurement that doesn't vary much with frequency across the band from about 50Hz up to a few kHz? If so, it could help you experiment. (I'm not sure if your "LCR meter" also measures voltages.) I have a fairly cheap DMM other than the LCR meter which measures AC but have never discovered if it does what you ask, nor do I know how to test it to find out. All I know about it is that it cost $30 and is rated for mains electricity work. It seems quite good, with a 32-position rotary dial in the middle, AC range has 5 positions from 200mV to 750V. The problem with an LCR meter is that it may just do this at one frequency, and not give a useful results for L/C/R for something that has complex behaviour. Going that route you may really need to be able to check the impedance at various frequencies. I mainly bought the LCR meter so that I could measure inductors and capacitors so that I might a) re-use components that I have from older systems or b) as you mention below, maybe hand-wind my own inductors. My existing DMM didn't measure inductance and has a lower range of capacitance. Assuming you can measure AC voltages... To test the meter, you could connect it as a voltmeter to measure the output of your power amp and play some test tones from a CD, say, see if the reading for the voltage stays steady as you change frequency. However note that a cheap multimeter may only give sensible AC voltage readings for 50-60Hz. Ok, thanks. Seems I'll be searching for a download of either a test-tone CD or, preferably, software that I can run on my second laptop that will output variable tones. By ear or by meter, the simple way to experiment is to try putting something like an inductor in series with the woofer. Lacking measurements you'd have to guess what may be the right value for inductance. Then listen (and/or measure the effect on the ac voltage at the woofer) to decide what effect it has had. Use that to decide if a bigger or smaller inductance might be worth trying. Repeat until happy or exhausted. :-) Yes, that sounds to be roughly what I tought I might have to do. As they are, the X-over is built onto a small PCB connected to the speaker terminal block. I don't want to keep pulling the things to bits so might open them and run the wires for the woofer out the reflex port. That way, if I do get exhausted (a real possibility with my back pain) I can simply wire them back to the terminals along with the amp output until next time. :-) Lacking measurements you can 'guess' the speaker impedance is around 10 Ohms, then choose an inductor value on that basis. As I mentioned, the woofer is in fact rated 3.6 Ohms. At least that's what's written on it, with 8 Ohms written on the ribbons, and the sticker on the back says nom. imp. 4 Ohms. Chances are, the guess will be wrong and the actual impedance is higher. However you can then cheaply try connecting a resistor *across* the woofer terminals to pull down the impedance at the roll-away point. Then experiment with resistors - cheaper than trying different inductors. But avoid choosing a value that is too low as the amp may not like the loading. Ok, thanks. I hope that the amp's protection circuitry's working fine as, if it's not and it's needed I'm not in a position to replace it. For real use you'd need an inductor that can handle high enough currents and with a very low series resistance. But to save cost you could experiment first with cheaper low-current inductors. Or even 'wind your own'. I've been grabbing inductors out of scrapped computer / server power-supplies lately (so many I didn't...). They're mostly toroidial and I didn't think they'd be of use (other than a source of wire) but then I read about a speaker company using toroidial inductors on their woofers, like it's a great thing... The trouble is the highest indusctance I have is only 0.4mH but it's 1.3mm diameter wire. Beyond that, I suspect others can give you more detailed advice, and may have experience of speaking building, etc. I was hoping so, hence holding off on replying. However it seems not. Thanks Jim. I'd pour you a dram or two of of Uigeadial if only I still had some... -- Shaun. "Humans will have advanced a long, long, way when religious belief has a cozy little classification in the DSM." David Melville (in r.a.s.f1) |
XO help wanted.
"~misfit~" Phil Allison wrote: ** In the world of electronics, "XO" = crystal oscillator. In the world of loudspeakers, the term "crossover" is often shortened to X-over. Thanks Phil, I believe I mentioned that I was on the low-end of the learning-curve? ;-) On internet forums, just about anything goes... Indeed. However it's easiest if we're all speaking the same language yes? Heh, your surname remined me that I must get around to doing *something* with the boxes containing all 12 drivers from a set of Allison Ones (January 1978) that I have in the back room. ** I always preferred the name sake connection with Allison aero engines. My first ride in a plane was in a Lockheed L188 Electra with four, Allison T56 turboprops. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Allison_Engine_Company ..... Phil |
XO help wanted.
In article , ~misfit~
wrote: Somewhere on teh intarwebs Jim Lesurf wrote: In article , ~misfit~ Ideally, you'd equip yourself and be able to do some basic measurements. Indeed. I'm trying to find downloads of any good freeware that I can use. I'll comment in more detail later if I get a chance. But you should be able to find various freeware around. If you use Linux (or RISC OS) you can use some of the programs on http://www.audiomisc.co.uk/software/index.html to do things like create test files/audio CDs and analyse the results in various ways. However I suspect the main challenge will be carrying out suitable measurements to get the data needed to decide what kind of crossover may be useful. FWIW I've never bothered to make or mod my own speakers. I've always regarded it as being too much bother as it can be very hard to reach a good result. Although I've designed or fiddled with much of the electronics in my audio systems, I tend to leave speakers to the professionals as I regard that as the 'hard part' of home audio. :-) Slainte, Jim -- Please use the address on the audiomisc page if you wish to email me. Electronics http://www.st-and.ac.uk/~www_pa/Scot...o/electron.htm Armstrong Audio http://www.audiomisc.co.uk/Armstrong/armstrong.html Audio Misc http://www.audiomisc.co.uk/index.html |
XO help wanted.
Somewhere on teh intarwebs Jim Lesurf wrote:
In article , ~misfit~ wrote: Somewhere on teh intarwebs Jim Lesurf wrote: In article , ~misfit~ Ideally, you'd equip yourself and be able to do some basic measurements. Indeed. I'm trying to find downloads of any good freeware that I can use. I'll comment in more detail later if I get a chance. But you should be able to find various freeware around. If you use Linux (or RISC OS) you can use some of the programs on http://www.audiomisc.co.uk/software/index.html to do things like create test files/audio CDs and analyse the results in various ways. Alas, I use Windows, and 32-bit XP Pro at that! I have a really nice little IBM X32 ThinkPad that I'm going to use for my audio / electrical stuff. I've installed a mate's (older) copy of BassBox Pro and it comes with a programme called X-Over [3] Pro. However so far I've only modelled a couple of speaker boxes, I haven't touched the X-Over part. It's supposed to be quite easy to learn but a side-effect of my meds is bad short-term memory so learning *anything* is extraordinarily difficult! I suppose that being 50 y/o doesn't help either. Annoying as, at school I was a social outcast due to being put ahead two years and *still* coming top of the class in most subjects. :( I find the contrast alarming. However I suspect the main challenge will be carrying out suitable measurements to get the data needed to decide what kind of crossover may be useful. My cheap Chinese LCR meter seems to be pretty good in that regard, at least for inductance. Well, the only reason I say that is that it's repeatable and, in X-Overs I've pulled apart from old speakers the parts from both speakers measure the same. This is it: http://www.dealextreme.com/p/4070l-2...ltimeter-26768 Unfortunately you can't use the probes to measure an inductor, the ends of the component itself have to be inserted into the sockets on the meter. That's annoying as I have some nice speakers around and I'd love to know the values of the components in their X-Overs. (Also I have a friend who will let me pull the woofer from his speakers to take a peek at how well they're made [he's curious too but wouldn't do it himself] and it would be nice to be able to measue inductors in situ. shrug Oh well.) Caps and resistors have the value written on them. However I'd rather not unsolder everything to test the inductors. FWIW I've never bothered to make or mod my own speakers. I've always regarded it as being too much bother as it can be very hard to reach a good result. Although I've designed or fiddled with much of the electronics in my audio systems, I tend to leave speakers to the professionals as I regard that as the 'hard part' of home audio. :-) Heh! Yes, hard and expensive. I made my first set of speakers over 30 years ago as a teenager as I couldn't afford the prices decent boxes cost. However I didn't bother too much with X-Overs back then (similar to a lot of manufacturers of the time), simply adding capacitors to protect mids and tweets. Woofers ran full-range. Then there was a period when I was earning well and some of what I didn't save towards starting my business I allowed myself to spend on good speakers (and other audio gear). Alas, now I've almost come full-circle (except I can't take part-time jobs like I used to during school holidays) and am poor but still want to have good-sounding gear. I find that I don't have to spend a fortune on an amplifier to get something that sounds pretty good. It's the speakers where there's the biggest variable, and cost. I simply can't afford to buy (built-up) anything remotely like I can appreciate so I'm having to build my own again. However X-over technology and understanding have come a long way and also my ears have become more discerning. So, due to financial constraints I'm building my own speakers, mostly using scavenged drivers (so I don't always coughevercough have the T/S parameters for them). Sometimes I can find them on teh webs which is great but mostly I'm flying blind, other than what I can measure. Oh, as a side-note, although I can wield a soldering-iron with the best of them I've never learned much about electronics. My experience has mainly been limited to replacing components (caps on PC motherboards being the big one) and sticking wires together. I'm currently heh! reading this: http://electronicstheory.com/COURSES...ICS/e101-1.htm and looking for more similar educational material. I have a couple old amps that I'd love to be able to fix and, more than anything else being an invalid with an active mind (albeit one that has trouble remembering) I *need* to have something to keep my mind occupied and the less it costs the better! g If you can suggest any sites that might help me in my quest to learn (but basically from the start) I'd love to have the URLs. Reading forums like DIYAudio makes me wish I could build my own amplifier.... ;-) Cheers, -- Shaun. "Humans will have advanced a long, long, way when religious belief has a cozy little classification in the DSM." David Melville (in r.a.s.f1) |
XO help wanted.
Somewhere on teh intarwebs Phil Allison wrote:
"~misfit~" Phil Allison wrote: ** In the world of electronics, "XO" = crystal oscillator. In the world of loudspeakers, the term "crossover" is often shortened to X-over. Thanks Phil, I believe I mentioned that I was on the low-end of the learning-curve? ;-) On internet forums, just about anything goes... Indeed. However it's easiest if we're all speaking the same language yes? Heh, your surname remined me that I must get around to doing *something* with the boxes containing all 12 drivers from a set of Allison Ones (January 1978) that I have in the back room. ** I always preferred the name sake connection with Allison aero engines. My first ride in a plane was in a Lockheed L188 Electra with four, Allison T56 turboprops. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Allison_Engine_Company Allison made some impressive engines, that's for sure. :-) -- Shaun. "Humans will have advanced a long, long, way when religious belief has a cozy little classification in the DSM." David Melville (in r.a.s.f1) |
XO help wanted.
In article , ~misfit~
wrote: Somewhere on teh intarwebs Jim Lesurf wrote: I'll comment in more detail later if I get a chance. But you should be able to find various freeware around. If you use Linux (or RISC OS) you can use some of the programs on http://www.audiomisc.co.uk/software/index.html to do things like create test files/audio CDs and analyse the results in various ways. Alas, I use Windows, and 32-bit XP Pro at that! In case it helps, the programs on my website all come with the full source code in 'C'. So if you can use GCC on your windows box you could tweak and recompile the Linux code and make your own versions. I'm quite happy for people to do that. The programs and code are provided for anyone who wants to make (non commercial) use of them. [snip] If you can suggest any sites that might help me in my quest to learn (but basically from the start) I'd love to have the URLs. Reading forums like DIYAudio makes me wish I could build my own amplifier.... ;-) Can't suggest websites for speaker building, I'm afraid. What little I know about that is from collected ages of mags, journals, etc. But if you can solder and bend metal I'd suspect you find making a decent amp far easier than making a speaker that sounds good. People seem to have drawn to speaker making because it seems 'easy' in terms of electronics. But there are lots of decent amp designs around. And if you want something like a DIY preamp there are tricks you can employ. My favourite is to buy a second-hand Quad 34 and then modify it to your heart's content. With the manual they are easy to fiddle about. Everything is neatly laid out and labelled. No need to even bend metal or make boards. IIRC someone also used to sell upgraded boards for the venerable 303. So there are all kinds of options. Slainte, Jim -- Please use the address on the audiomisc page if you wish to email me. Electronics http://www.st-and.ac.uk/~www_pa/Scot...o/electron.htm Armstrong Audio http://www.audiomisc.co.uk/Armstrong/armstrong.html Audio Misc http://www.audiomisc.co.uk/index.html |
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