"RJH" wrote in message
eb.com...
On 09/12/2012 11:15, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article
om,
RJH wrote:
On 08/12/2012 23:58, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article
om, RJH
wrote:
I need some bulbs - they're 13A plug fuse shaped/sized, and
described
as 'lamp, pilot, 8.0V 30 mA'; and '8.0V 200mA'. Any ideas
of a
source? I'm not going to spend a lot of money . . .
They're called festoon lamps which should help with your
search.
Excellent, thanks - here
http://www.bltdirect.co.uk/festoon.htm
looks to be good. Problem I now have is the lack of 8V
lamps - they tend
to be 6V or 12V.
Given these bulbs are 0.24W (tuning panel light - seems low?)
and 1.6W
(tape deck meters) can I substitute a higher or lower voltage
bulb? I'd
probably er on the side of caution/dimness - the bulb
surrounds look
pretty charred.
There are LED festoon lamps - mainly to replace such things in
car
interior lights, etc. Made up of several LEDs. Might be worth
seeing if
those physically fit - no heat to speak of and perhaps easier
to alter the
brightness. Basically, these sort of odd tungsten low current
lamps can be
very hard to source.
Thanks. Finally getting round to it! Would the 8V feed be
suitable for this type of thing:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Lighting-EVE.../dp/B004JRR59Y
or
http://tinyurl.com/aa4vhbg
(another Amazon example)
They'd be far too bright so I'd just use some sort of screen -
but it's the 8V I'm wary of.
Thanks, Rob
(Incidentally, apart from the bulbs it all works very well - a
Sony HMK 80B music centre - even the tape deck. Good that
service manuals still freely available)
Beware. LED lamps (as distinct from individual LEDs if you see
what I mean) do generate some heat - hence why they fit huge
heatsinks on LED floodlights even though they are only 10-30W
rated.
Also don't get confused between volts and watts. Your first link
above is to a bulb to replace the 'normal 8W' interior light bulb
(actually 10W) in a car. Can you imagine how bright that would be
on a music centre - OK if you want to light the room as well!
You might do better with Maplin WL75S or WQ13P or BT53H or BU14Q
or BT43W, or maybe have a look at
http://cpc.farnell.com/jsp/search/browse.jsp?N=411+2005+204869+110129918+110161956&N tk=gensearch&Ntt=pea+bulbs&Ntx=mode+matchallpartia l&No=0&getResults=true&appliedparametrics=true&loc ale=en_CC&divisionLocale=en_CC&catalogId=&skipManu facturer=false&skipParametricAttributeId=&prevNVal ues=411+2005+204869&mm=1002543||,&filtersHidden=fa lse&appliedHidden=false&autoApply=false&originalQu eryURL=%2Fjsp%2Fsearch%2Fbrowse.jsp%3FN%3D411%2B20 05%2B204869%26Ntk%3Dgensearch%26Ntt%3Dpea%2Bbulbs% 26Ntx%3Dmode%2Bmatchallpartial%26No%3D0%26getResul ts%3Dtrue%26appliedparametrics%3Dtrue%26locale%3De n_CC%26divisionLocale%3Den_CC%26catalogId%3D%26ski pManufacturer%3Dfalse%26skipParametricAttributeId% 3D%26prevNValues%3D411%2B2005%2B204869
which has a number of sub-min bulbs.
Charles Hyde also have something like what you may need, but
again get the 12V version to underrun it
http://www.chsinteractive.co.uk/elec...stoon-cap.html
Most dial lamps used to be 6V or 12V at around 40-60mA, or in
round figures about 250-750mW. They were almost always underrun
so that they glowed rather than shone, and of course being
underrun they would last nearly forever - although clearly not in
your case! You will be able to solder wires only any sub-min bulb
mount, just make sure that when in place the bulb cannot melt
anything around it - they may be underrun but they still get hot!
--
Woody
harrogate three at ntlworld dot com