gregz wrote:
"Woody" wrote:
"Johny B Good" wrote in
message ...
On Sun, 28 Apr 2013 12:50:59 +0100, Jim Lesurf

wrote:

I'm currently doing occasional 'batches' of LP - digital
transfers. This
is enjoyable as I keep finding discs I'd forgotten about, etc.
However I'm
starting to get the impression that my Technics direct-drive
turntable is
slowing down when switched off more quickly than previously.

This makes me wonder if it is time for me to add a tiny spot of
the right
kind of oil to its bearing. Not oiled it in about 20 years!

Alas, the tube of oil that came with the deck about 30 years
ago became
damaged and was thrown away years ago. So the question is what
kind of oil
or lubricant? I've been looking in the CPC catalogue and
ignoring all the
'three in one' types and ones with graphite I'm wondering if
the best bet
there is the "7g precision lubricator" of "Super Lube Synthetic
Lubricant"
SASLPO. However it is very different to ye olde sowing machine
oil in a
tiny tube which had been my initial aim.

Closer in some ways is the "Cartune General Purpose Handy Oil"
CP03797 in a
125ml dropper bottle. But this seems a bit basic.

So can anyone comment on the above or suggest an alternative
they think
would be better than I can get from someone like
CPC/Maplin/etc?

I've looked in a local DIY and there it is all sprays and
three-in-one.

There is a bike shop in town. Might they be a better bet? I'll
go in when I
get a chance. But I'm out of touch with that as it is decades
since I had a
bike and was a frequent user of LPS... :-)

Since the turntable is a direct drive unit, I'm assuming it's
safe to
say that the platter is also the rotor part of the direct drive
motor
which means the one and only bearing may be pretty similar to
the
sleeve type typically used to support the platter spindle on
more
conventional decks (belt, or even idler driven designs).

If the platter can be lifted away from its bearing like the
indirect
drive types (I see no good reason why this can't be the case
but the
designer might have had other ideas), it should be a simple job
to
inspect the state of the bearing and the condition of the
lubricant.

I have to say though, if the lubricant has become so sticky as
to
make a noticable difference in the deceleration to a standstill
on
switch off, the lubricant must have thickened up to an extreme
degree
indeed (so much so, it might prove difficult to lift the
platter away
from its bearing - assuming the design permits this form of
disassembly).

If that is true, I suspect the type of oil you should be using
will
be a relative of the automotive high pressure type used in
differential housings. IOW, not a lightweight 'sewing machine'
type of
oil.

I note that the original lubricant was supplied in a tube. Was
it a
squeezy tube like a toothpaste one? If so, perhaps the oil was
of a
thick enough consistency to warrant the packaging normally used
for
very thick oils and greases. Just a thought.
--


POI: I have a DD turntable - Hitachi I think, it's so long since
I looked at it - and to get that turntable off the shaft requires
a little lifting pressure under the edge and a sharp tap with a
small hammer on the spindle itself.

On mine the turntable is spun aluminium alloy and used to ring
like a bell. Many years ago (well over 20) I bought some
rubberised epoxy material, set the platter upside down and dead
level and poured the mix into the recess on the underside. It
took a couple of days to thoroughly set but the platter was as
dead as a Dodo and is still in that state to this day,



Ringing is not good. I found record clamps removed the record vibration on
playback.

Trying to think what kind of oil that I think came with ar turntable. I
would first check status of present old oil to see what's it's like.
Probably clean it all out. I think some 20 weight non detergent oil would
be fine.

Greg

After reading the AR turntable manual it says use 10W no additives, non
detergent.
The fine oils seem to be thinner than 10w. Anything designed to go into
autos has additives. 3N1 probably has additives. I was looking at my bottle
of Nyoil. Seems thinner than 10W. Nyoil II is synthetic, and probably
additives, but seems to be the best for Pinewood Derby !!

I might still have that AR oil, but something tells me that plastic
container bit the dust. Sold my TD 124, but still have my AR turntable I
bought in 1969, but have not used it since the mid 70,s.

Greg