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Old December 21st 03, 12:19 AM posted to uk.rec.audio
Keith G
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Posts: 7,388
Default Added a DAC to a cheap CD player - and got a result


"Wally" wrote in message
...
Keith G wrote:

Right, sounds like you've got the signal best part sorted. To cap it
off now, go the next step and get it routed through a decent valve
amp. Beg, borrow or steal summat that'll push out about 25-30W a
side, switch it on and give it about 20 minutes to get the 'trons
organised, put on something 'full bodied', crank it up about halfway
and strap yerself in tight.......!!

(Then come back here and tell me you *didn't* like it!!!)


My amp is the Millennium 4-20 stereo kit that Maplin was selling a few

years
ago. EF86 input to an ECC83 driving 2xEL34 in push-pull, class AB1,
nominally 20W per channel, good for 27 apparently. Clear, punchy

transients
at about 1/4 to 1/3 volume - it develops 20W for 220mW input, so perhaps
it's reaching full volume peaks at my normal volume setting. Some music is
less enjoyable at about half volume, and it gradually deteriorates after
that. Goes pretty loud, never had it up full. It ain't mega-fi, but it
sounds okay. :-)




Oops! Teaching my grannie to suck eggs here........!! :-)




I had the valves baked in honey and soaked in swamp water - to make 'em
sweet and give 'em soul, you understand. Unfortunately, they just got

sticky
and the pins corroded. I reckon a good way to hear 'the valve sound' is to
take a heavy guitar with beefy pickups and plug it into a decent valve
guitar amp. Turn it up and tickle the amp into ever-increasing levels of
creamy Audiophonic Overload Nirvana. There *is* no substitute. I built a
valve hi-fi amp (using the finest dessicated snakes) for no reason other
than: I want one. :-)



Nah, the next thing to address is the speakers. One of them is developing

a
loose back panel - the original builder was economical with the screws,

and
the 'plastic wood' crap that acted as a glue as well as a filler has gven
way. I need to get the panel off to see about adding extra screws to hold

it
down. They're big and wardrobe-like - I'd like something much smaller and
with better bass. I want a flatter response (they're a bit boomy in

places)
and more oomph low down.




Hmmm, there's a school of thought that reckons speaker boxes with a few
holes and splits in 'em can sound pretty good. (In fact there are some
nutters who also like a few holes in their bass cones!) - I had a pair of
old Sabres that that had a few seams opening up and they sounded great. I
filled them with Plastic Padding though and then went and blew 'em up with a
50wpc Class A valve amp and a bit too much 'welly'! (Perhaps I should of
left 'em alone......!!)



The eventual plan is to make new bass enclosures, stash them out of the

way,
and put the mid and top drivers into small boxes of LS3/5a sorta size. I'm
currently entertaining isobaric enclosures for the bass because I happen

to
have four bass drivers - sounds like a lot of bass for the buck and easier
to build than transmission lines (which was my previous bass fantasy).




The idea of separate enclosures for bass and mid drivers with a nice little
separate 50 kHz tweeter sitting on top is one that has interested me for a
while now. (Won't go anywhere though - no budget for such foolishness
atm.... :-)