A very common type of low-cost (but effective) alarm appears to be an alarm
only. But there is a brain and it work on a very sinple princliple.
You hook it up to your battery only. When you engage the alarm (they
usually come with two remotes) it senses ANY voltage decrease, and that
causes the alarm to sound. Again, it is ingenious because if someone were
to break into your car, although the breaking of the window would not set
off the alarm, they would invariably open the door, causing the dome light
to turn on. This slight decrease in voltage because of the dome light
coming on is what causes the alarm to sound.
Although it has nothing to do with the ignition and anything that would
prevent the car from starting (being hot-wired), the siren is VERY loud and
might very well be enough to scare any would-be thief away.
Realisitic blinking red-lights cab be bought from radio shack for about $6.
Properly inslalled, they can look VERY convincing. Also, a trip to your
local car audio shop can often get you (for free) some stickers from major
alarm companies (Code-Alarm, Viper, etc.) that they may have just laying
around from previous jobs.
In any case, I have learned in my 25 years I have been into car audio (I am
41) that DETERANCE is everything. I have had my car broken into perhaps 9
times in my life (because I have always had large, expensive systems), but I
can HONESTLY say I have never had a car invaded where there was simply a
blinking red light. Thiefs are lazy. Why chance trouble when there are so
many other fish in the sea. A blinking red light I KNOW has saved countless
break-in attempts.
Take this advice to heart. I have worked in this industry and even spoken
to ex-thiefs (well, they say they are ex-theifs). I mean, even if you have
an ignition kill system or a simple voltage drop alarm, once your window is
broken, there's an expense right there, whether they get your car or system.
No, you want to prevent them from even breaking that first window. When I
was in my 20's (and more influenced by sales people and had just had my
entire $2000 system stolen) I spent $400 on a sophisticated CodeAlarm system
(a car I sold with alarm 2 years later).
20 years wiser I have learned that perhaps simply the red light was all that
was needed.
Keep in mind, if you do go the fake red light approach, it HAS to look real
and professionaly installed. Thiefs can easily spot a fake. But done
right, you can save hundreds of dollars vs. a real alarm.
My $.02,
MOSFET
"DaveC" wrote in message
obal.net...
From what I was able to glean from a quick Google search, I believe the
green and yellow leads have to do with the engine immobilizer.
http://www.freymoto.com/media/Sample...ll%20Guide.pdf
Thanks for the reply, Frank.
That one is a bit more sophisticated than what I have. Mine is a siren
only,
no "brain". Or the brain (such as it is) is included in the siren. Just 3
wires coming out of the siren (other than power -- red and black). These 3
other wires are blue, green, black (yes, 2 black wires).
Anyone seen these? I'll post a photo later.
Thanks,
--
DaveC
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Cyclone alarm siren wiring?
Hybrid Mode
