On 18 Sep 2005 16:06:49 -0700, wrote:

I would like to use solid core 2.5mm mains cable (6242Y) for speaker
cable runs in plastered wall, but I am concerned with how practical it
will be to terminate.

At the speaker end, I hope that I can simply pinch the cable core with
the speaker's binding post. At the other end will be a wall plate with
binding posts (e.g. http://tinyurl.com/a3uay ) for the amplifier
connections. On the rear of this wall plate, I guess that I'll have to
solder the core to the hidden end of the binding post.

Soldering solid-core untinned copper is not easy.

Sure it is - you just need a big iron!
--

Stewart Pinkerton | Music is Art - Audio is Engineering

Thanks, I do have a crimp tool so that might be the best way to go.

By the way, at the speaker end, I was just going to have flying leads
coming out of the plastered wall. I'm hoping that if I mount the
speaker in front of this it will hide the lead.

In article .com,
wrote:
By the way, at the speaker end, I was just going to have flying leads
coming out of the plastered wall. I'm hoping that if I mount the
speaker in front of this it will hide the lead.

TW&E tends to look rather untidy as it isn't flexible. I'd use Maplin
2.5mm speaker flex for the bits that show. Actually, for the whole run. ;-)

--
*Middle age is when work is a lot less fun - and fun a lot more work.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

"Stewart Pinkerton" wrote in message
...
On 18 Sep 2005 16:06:49 -0700, wrote:

I would like to use solid core 2.5mm mains cable (6242Y) for speaker
cable runs in plastered wall, but I am concerned with how practical it
will be to terminate.

At the speaker end, I hope that I can simply pinch the cable core with
the speaker's binding post. At the other end will be a wall plate with
binding posts (e.g. http://tinyurl.com/a3uay ) for the amplifier
connections. On the rear of this wall plate, I guess that I'll have to
solder the core to the hidden end of the binding post.

Soldering solid-core untinned copper is not easy.

Sure it is - you just need a big iron!
--

Stewart Pinkerton | Music is Art - Audio is Engineering



With a big iron on his hip ;-) I see from their web site it's got solder
tags so an easy job, with that big iron and the binding posts mounted in
plastic don't keep the iron on toooo long or it may m
e
l
t
the
plastic.
Mike

In article , Dave Plowman (News)
wrote:
In article .com,
wrote:
By the way, at the speaker end, I was just going to have flying leads
coming out of the plastered wall. I'm hoping that if I mount the
speaker in front of this it will hide the lead.

TW&E tends to look rather untidy as it isn't flexible. I'd use Maplin
2.5mm speaker flex for the bits that show. Actually, for the whole run.
;-)

I must confess I have been reading this thread wondering what the value of
the series inductance of the proposed cabling might be... :-)

Slainte,

Jim

--
Electronics http://www.st-and.ac.uk/~www_pa/Scot...o/electron.htm
Audio Misc http://www.st-and.demon.co.uk/AudioMisc/index.html
Armstrong Audio http://www.st-and.demon.co.uk/Audio/armstrong.html
Barbirolli Soc. http://www.st-and.demon.co.uk/JBSoc/JBSoc.html

wrote in message
oups.com

I would like to use solid core 2.5mm mains cable (6242Y)
for speaker cable runs in plastered wall, but I am
concerned with how practical it will be to terminate.

Not to mention how practical it will be to route neatly.

At the speaker end, I hope that I can simply pinch the
cable core with the speaker's binding post. At the other
end will be a wall plate with binding posts (e.g.
http://tinyurl.com/a3uay ) for the amplifier connections.
On the rear of this wall plate, I guess that I'll have to
solder the core to the hidden end of the binding post.

Well, yes that is how one attaches cable to the back side of
a binding post - you solder it.

Soldering solid-core untinned copper is not easy.


First you tin the wire all by itself, and then you fasten
it and solder it.

Soldering cable this heavy needs at least a 60 watt iron.
Doing the deed with a standard 30 watt pencil is a little
dicey.

"Owain" wrote in message
...
Stewart Pinkerton wrote:
No, his suggestion is entirely sensible, whereas every RATA product is
liberally smeared with snake oil, which can get smelly after a couple
of years........................

I'm sure you can send the cable back every couple of years for a service
to have the crystals holistically realigned to restore the original
performance.

Worth paying that little bit extra for the in-home service, I always say,
as this guarantees correct synchronicity with the localised chakras in the
listening environment.

Owain



Looks as if your chakras have escaped into the listening environment. This
is very serious and extemely damaging to listening pleasure.
Get help.

Mike

In article ,
Arny Krueger wrote:
Soldering cable this heavy needs at least a 60 watt iron.
Doing the deed with a standard 30 watt pencil is a little
dicey.

In the UK, most decent temperature controlled irons are 50 watts, and with
a suitable bit will be fine for 2.5mm UK final ring main cable. 'Hobby'
electronics irons are usually 15 watts and won't cope. But you can buy an
'instant' induction type rated at 125 watts in the sheds for not a lot.
That will solder most things.

--
*No word in the English language rhymes with month, orange, silver,purple

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

I wouldn't worry one iota for the R, L, C values for a length of about 3-4
metres handling 100W into 4-8 Ohms. Solid copper wires are a Luxury.
If sticking to running Twin and Earth cable, there would be a wasted
"centre" conductor which IMO is best paralleled with the "neutral" core at
both ends, and done for each channel! So each used pair's very low loop
resistance would then drop by a further 25%. Maximum current handling is
dictated by size of remaining "solo" core. And 2.5mm wires can handle 16Amps
continuous AC easily!

"Jim Lesurf" wrote in message
...
In article , Dave Plowman (News)
wrote:
In article .com,
wrote:
By the way, at the speaker end, I was just going to have flying leads
coming out of the plastered wall. I'm hoping that if I mount the
speaker in front of this it will hide the lead.

TW&E tends to look rather untidy as it isn't flexible. I'd use Maplin
2.5mm speaker flex for the bits that show. Actually, for the whole run.
;-)

I must confess I have been reading this thread wondering what the value of
the series inductance of the proposed cabling might be... :-)

Slainte,

Jim

--
Electronics
http://www.st-and.ac.uk/~www_pa/Scot...o/electron.htm
Audio Misc http://www.st-and.demon.co.uk/AudioMisc/index.html
Armstrong Audio http://www.st-and.demon.co.uk/Audio/armstrong.html
Barbirolli Soc. http://www.st-and.demon.co.uk/JBSoc/JBSoc.html

On Tue, 20 Sep 2005 13:02:57 +0100, Jim Lesurf
wrote:

In article , Dave Plowman (News)
wrote:
In article .com,
wrote:
By the way, at the speaker end, I was just going to have flying leads
coming out of the plastered wall. I'm hoping that if I mount the
speaker in front of this it will hide the lead.

TW&E tends to look rather untidy as it isn't flexible. I'd use Maplin
2.5mm speaker flex for the bits that show. Actually, for the whole run.
;-)

I must confess I have been reading this thread wondering what the value of
the series inductance of the proposed cabling might be... :-)

A bit less than that of Naim NACA5, so it must be just the thing for
audiophiles! :-)
--

Stewart Pinkerton | Music is Art - Audio is Engineering