Does anyone know the vintage year and specs (efficiency rating) of the
Pioneer CS-99a speakers ?

I've had about 10 pairs of different vintage speakers so far- and these
by far have the heaviest cabinets and thickest board used to make the
cabinets- they also have removeable backs which is a nice plus. As
usual, finding info on these on the net is difficult, as most places
want to sell you a vintage audio "bible" to get the info.

any help appreciated- thanks

On 27 Sep 2006 15:14:22 -0700, "jailhouserock"
wrote:

I've had about 10 pairs of different vintage speakers so far- and these
by far have the heaviest cabinets and thickest board used to make the
cabinets- they also have removeable backs which is a nice plus. As
usual, finding info on these on the net is difficult, as most places
want to sell you a vintage audio "bible" to get the info.

Why are removable backs a plus? If the speaker fixings are
accessible from the front, that's fine. A sealed back would seem
superior, if anything.

Laurence Payne wrote:
On 27 Sep 2006 15:14:22 -0700, "jailhouserock"
wrote:

I've had about 10 pairs of different vintage speakers so far- and these
by far have the heaviest cabinets and thickest board used to make the
cabinets- they also have removeable backs which is a nice plus. As
usual, finding info on these on the net is difficult, as most places
want to sell you a vintage audio "bible" to get the info.

Why are removable backs a plus? If the speaker fixings are
accessible from the front, that's fine. A sealed back would seem
superior, if anything.


You don't have to remove the woofer to get at the adjustable
crossovers- and the backs are countersunk on the edges, for a really
tight fit. Also to get at the speaker wire connections to each driver,
a removeable back makes it much easier, than pulling each driver out.

On 28 Sep 2006 05:27:32 -0700, "jailhouserock"
wrote:


You don't have to remove the woofer to get at the adjustable
crossovers- and the backs are countersunk on the edges, for a really
tight fit. Also to get at the speaker wire connections to each driver,
a removeable back makes it much easier, than pulling each driver out.

Well, OK. But why would you need adjustable crossovers or access to
the wiring unless you were changing drivers?

Laurence Payne wrote:
On 28 Sep 2006 05:27:32 -0700, "jailhouserock"
wrote:


You don't have to remove the woofer to get at the adjustable
crossovers- and the backs are countersunk on the edges, for a really
tight fit. Also to get at the speaker wire connections to each driver,
a removeable back makes it much easier, than pulling each driver out.

Well, OK. But why would you need adjustable crossovers or access to
the wiring unless you were changing drivers?


You need adjustable crossovers while changing drivers ?? What you said
is a red herring argument.

Changing drivers- if you never had to change out at least a tweeter,
you haven't been listening to music very much, or very long. I've
changed tweeters in many speakers, and mids- and my main speakers just
had the woofers changed out for bad surrounds, under the lifetime
warranty. Those lasted 20 years, I bought them in 1986.

I had to cut open a speaker that was sealed and glued together once, to
change the crossover cap- because I was changing out a bad tweeter and
could not get to it from the front.

see ??

jailhouserock wrote:

Changing drivers- if you never had to change out at least a tweeter,
you haven't been listening to music very much, or very long. I've
changed tweeters in many speakers, and mids- and my main speakers just
had the woofers changed out for bad surrounds, under the lifetime
warranty. Those lasted 20 years, I bought them in 1986.

Here's a wild idea but it just might work!
Have you tried *not* overloading every speaker you've owned?

--
Eiron

No good deed ever goes unpunished.

Eiron wrote:
jailhouserock wrote:

Changing drivers- if you never had to change out at least a tweeter,
you haven't been listening to music very much, or very long. I've
changed tweeters in many speakers, and mids- and my main speakers just
had the woofers changed out for bad surrounds, under the lifetime
warranty. Those lasted 20 years, I bought them in 1986.

Here's a wild idea but it just might work!
Have you tried *not* overloading every speaker you've owned?

--
Eiron



back in the good old days, "receiver wars" of the 1970-80's,
overloading speakers was a way of life

I don't do that anymore, with 8 watts per channel and a single ended
pentode dual-monoblock tube amp

but the surrounds will still dry rot and crack- and crossover caps will
deteriorate- so removing the back makes total sense

not to mention upgrading with baffles or insulation

why build a machine that can't be serviced ? that's like welding the
hood of a car shut

On 29 Sep 2006 06:29:24 -0700, "jailhouserock"
wrote:

why build a machine that can't be serviced ? that's like welding the
hood of a car shut

Huh? The hood of my car is welded shut; that's because it isn't a
convertible - where's the problem?

d

--
Pearce Consulting
http://www.pearce.uk.com

On Fri, 29 Sep 2006 13:36:02 GMT, (Don Pearce)
wrote:

why build a machine that can't be serviced ? that's like welding the
hood of a car shut

Huh? The hood of my car is welded shut; that's because it isn't a
convertible - where's the problem?

What hood, then?

If you want to be smart-ass, at least come up with a possible one :-)

On Fri, 29 Sep 2006 14:44:17 +0100, Laurence Payne
lpayne1NOSPAM@dslDOTpipexDOTcom wrote:

On Fri, 29 Sep 2006 13:36:02 GMT, (Don Pearce)
wrote:

why build a machine that can't be serviced ? that's like welding the
hood of a car shut

Huh? The hood of my car is welded shut; that's because it isn't a
convertible - where's the problem?

What hood, then?

If you want to be smart-ass, at least come up with a possible one :-)

Sorry, no idea what this question means.

d

--
Pearce Consulting
http://www.pearce.uk.com