Yes, after applying Flash and rinsing I got a glue-like white substance
forming around the circumference.

There is a slight misunderstanding.
It was taking the completed 'full-circle' water stream (and now-dry
LP) to the edge of the LP - whilst lifting the LP away from the
stream.
The 'edge' is what you get when, holding the LP almost vertical, is
quickly formed as you rotate the LP - ie; to one side the LP is *dry -
so you are moving this 'edge' around the LP as you are rotating it.
The end-result is an essentially 'surgically-clean' LP. The detergent
solution being *completely.(see above) washed away from the surface as
you're rotating the disc...in fact.if you breathe on the LP you will
see the 'mold-release pattern' - as originally formed.

You will get white deposits left behind in the groove with various
detergents (also the chalk-residues from tap-water if left to 'drip-
dry')..which is why you can't use any-old brand/type - 'Fairy Liquid'
- original - is no good..nor Citrus types.
Even - so-called - 'distilled water' (more like dirty water..if the
Chemist's stuff is typical..) will cause contamination.
Using my 'method' (placing the LP on a flat surface or TT to apply
detergent to just the one side is difficult - and will migrate to the
other side..) there is no need to have all the 'rinsing' nonsense.

The success (when professionally used..) of the vacuum (ie Keith Monks
type) RCM is the effective removal of surface solution (though some
'atomic' residue is likely left behind).
Their drawback is the use of a nylon brush to apply the
'solution' (thus carrying deposits from disc-to-disc) - also 'the
solution' itself.
I've had LPs ruined by Alcohol formulations - also the other 'pad-
type' machines used by shops - in the latter case covering them in
fine scratches.
In both cases with irremovable 'crackle' added...I can't see the point
in Paying to get That result.

Whether High Frequencies are lost when wet-playing is a moot point.
*I* wouldn't wet-play, as mentioned - but it could be that the lack/
lowering of surface noise gives *the impression* of less HF - similar
to hiss on FM stereo appearing to 'brighten' the sound...although I
can see the argument that water could 'smooth-over'/'fill-in' fine
groove detail..
A clean/new LP inherently plays 'smoothly' (all other things being
equal) - it's just that not many people are hearing them that way !!
(I threw away 100s of LPs from my original collection after inflicting
various 'cleaners'/methods on them).

The 'learning-curve' is to know what to avoid.. usually The Advice/
Manufacturers Products....
Interestingly, when I bought large collections, (from 50s onwards)
there were very few (well under 1%) that had been wet-cleaned.
It only becomes a slight problem (%-wise) from the mid-70s on...when
all the destructive contraptions/cleaning solutions mainly appear.
And, you can still buy them...

"Dave Matthews" wrote in message
...
"frankwm" wrote in message
oups.com...
You don't mention whether you've simply 'wet-played' - or combined
that with a detergent clean.
The fact you reduced the 'battleground effects' indicates that your
Iso-Alcohol method was leaving behind residues.

Well I detergent-cleaned (with a mild solution of "Flash"), rinsed
and dried it which, as I said, didn't seem to make any difference at
all. So I then wet-played it and that's when I noticed the difference.
Having now left it to dry out again for a couple of days, I can see
exactly what you mean by residues being left over. So I've wetted it
again now, and it plays fine again.

Thanks for the details of your method - I'll give it a try later
this week...


with 1970s vinyl it quickly forms an 'edge' and rotating the LP anti-

Yes, after applying Flash and rinsing I got a glue-like white
substance forming around the circumference.

Will report back soon!



If you don't mind me saying so, I think your approach to vinyl is
wrong - there is no way it will compete for silence/noise floor with CD
or 24/192 and it's is a Fool's Errand to try. LPs can vary from
virtually silent to very noisy and the kit used can either help or make
the situation worse - I have a Shure V15/III that delights in finding
hiss and pops and I think the popular Goldring G1042 is a *spitchy
bitch*, whereas some/most Ortofon MCs run nice and quiet, as do some of
the cheaper carts like the AT110E.

Distance lends enchantment - forget about some of the
potentially-damaging potions and lotions that have been mentioned here
and other various voodoo techniques, just wipe a record off thoroughly
with a plush pad until the 'greasy dust' has been rounded up and pulled
off and put the record on. Retire to a safe distance (next room?) and
listen to the music. Train yourself to listen this way gradually moving
closer to the kit until you are not bothered by, or better yet, do not
even *notice* any unwanted noise! I listen to a lot of records while on
this computer (doing it right now) and, while the music fills the whole
house (bungalow) there is virtually *never* any surface noise reaches
me!!

When a record is truly too dirty to play, it's not what is used to clean
it that counts but *getting it off* - which is why there is no real
substitute for a vacuum machine!

Also, the better one's kit is, the more detail it will dig out of a
record and that includes unwanted noise. Sometimes the 'Technics
Technique' is a better way to play records - a modest deck with a modest
cart played through an SS amp's own phono stage will often give a much
less bothersome listen at the cost of possibly the nth degree of detail
and depth...??