RdM wrote:
Reading Patrick Turner in
. au:
There is a chance the membranes are being pulled off centre but without
being
pulled right over against a stator so that might explain the buzzes.
Aha!
There was talk earlier of the sensibility, even necessity, of coating the
membrane on both sides. IIRC you dismissed the idea, at least to having any
effect, and further wrote of practical difficulties in this particular case.
Indeed there was a discussion, and after having talked to a couple more
guys, one
of whom has been making ESL for 20 years as a hobby, what I said was OK,
ie, there
doesn't need to be a coating to both sides of the membrane.
This man has panels with his own coating which are much more sensitive
and drivavble than the ERA
panels I am struggling with, and he's able to apply 6kV without stiction
of the membrane,
and the dspacer distance is the same at 2.5mm.
Yet it occurs to me thinking of it that it must make a difference.
In the double coated case each side of the membrane each side sees an ideal
equal distance to each stator, with a dielectric of air.
The thickness of the membrane = 0.0035mm, which is 1/685 of the spacer
distance.
On one side of membrane, the frames have a copper foil strip about 0.2mm
thick
thus unbalancing spacer distance far more than the thickness of the
membrane.
There is more occuring that one would expect.
Y
In your single side coated case, one side sees its distance to stator with air
dielectric, and the other side sees that distance + the membrane thckness,
with a mixed dielectric of air and the membrane. The mylar will increase the
capacitance, and the distance increase decrease it; by less, I imagine ...
In Quad ESL57, the stator is a 2mm thick plate of PVC, painted with
highly conductive paint
to make the actual stator.
The PVC has dielectric properties very different to air, and may assist
the operation.
Then there's the slightly unequal by mylar thickness electrostatic forces.
The mylar thickness is entirely irrelevant; slight irregularities in
physical tolerances elsewhere
swamp any effect the mylar thickness will have.
Other reasons cause the membrane to suck over to one of the stators.
Did the stiction always occur just on one side? Which? Coated or uncoated?
The uncoated side always tends to stick. at over 3,000V EHT, one can
push the membrane over against
a stator with a coton bud and watch the membrane tending to stick, then
releasing because there is just enough tension.
At 3,500V, it just swings over on its own. First time I set up a panel,
both bass membranes just went over against a stator, and arcs appeared
all over to the stators,
through the membrane, and through the lousy powder coating on the
stators.
When dismantled later, little black balls of **** were found where arcs
had repeatedly occurred.
I doubled the tension specified in the kit instructions but all that's
done is slightly
raise threshold for the EHT level needed before a membrane heads over
against a stator.
I dreamed of maybe one day building an ESL pair some while back, and trawled
around the DIY circuits and sites of the time. Now I seem to have accumulated
large ex elegant office tall wide wooden doors for large smooth work surfaces,
and a couple of roll ends of what looks like possibly useful diaphragm film,
and an old Tanner table saw for frames (and dynamic speaker boxes), so perhaps
I will sometime still do so; everything in me (and perhaps being a Libran
influences this
wants to see the film coated on both sides, for symmetry.
The double sided coating may work better because of weird electrostaic
phenomona,
but not because of the thickness of the material.
Coating both sides means you have to be able to apply the EHT from a
surrounding strip of copper
around each frame, and so perhaps the spacers which will be only 2.5mm
thick for bass
have to be made into a frame or ladder lattice that will support the
tensioned membrane
when its glued on, and then coatings can be applied.
But you still have to coat the "underside' of the membrane where is
glues on to the spacer support,
and provide some means of getting EHT to flow in. This is the hard bit.
ERA have simplified the construction to allow untrained ppl to build the
panels.
But it appears to me that every second person who buys a kit either
gives up, is bitterly dissapointed,
or who abandons construction because a friend has so many problems.
In short, ER Audio ESL kits are for masochists.
I cannot endorse their product at all.
I'd have prefered the kit had gone together without hitches, and in the
20 hours they say is doable,
and be able to recommend ppl to buying kits and paying me to put them
together.
But no, this isn't possible, the kits do give problems, and take far too
long.
Rob Mackinlay of ERA is quite aware of the bad press he's had here.
He's made ZERO attempt to turn up here to answer criticisms.
His mate in the UK, Colin Topps, the ERA sales rep did reply in private
emails to me
when I first began to post publicly about the problems I had. He tried
to insist
I couldn't have any problems, and eventually told me to sod off.
Hi Colin! I know your'e reading this! nice weather in UK?
Just because you told me to sod off and never ever to email
you again didn't mean I would shut the **** up mate!
Now back to the discussion.....
How much these potential distance effects may matter, one should at least, if
unable to test, fully consider, do you not think? Theorise, discuss, etc?
All I know is that Quad can make far better performing reliable panels
than ER Audio.
Unless any maker of ESL kits displays his complete understanding of the
product on his website, has all the test data and has done all the
tests, and admits the problems,
then don't buy from them.
I think that coating to one side only leads to an imbalance of charge to
one side, hence stiction,
and it has nothing to do with even distances.
Then again, it occurs to me - in a sense, with two coatings, effective, one
each side, not only do we get symmetry, but maybe double the charge capacity?
Would not the charge on one side repel the charge in the other?
The coating needs to be very high resistance, and various coatings and
mylar
work in different ways together so a -ve charge to one side may be best,
Quad have both sides charged,
and +ve.
I can only really learn from those who have built ESL for awhile.
Plus the very sandwich itself has two equal sign charges either side of a
dieletric, the whole central. I intuit that this is far better than one-sided.
Sure, but as I say, there are ppl who have had good results from single
coated membranes.
I am sure others here may have more understandings and competence in these
fields ahem than I evidence in these rambling thoughts ... let's hope so!
No, there are very few here who have had any experience with building or
repairs to ESL.
People don't like open public discussions because if they bull****, they
get their arses fried.
I try to be reasonable about it. But nothing good gets done unless
all the problems are admitted, faced, then overcome, and it always
involves discussions, and when I try to do something good,
I'll discuss matters with myself, and sometimes I have to admit I was
fool for
doing something that doesn't work.
People not used the testing of their ideas don't like this forum.
You cannot get way with BS here for long.
I enjoy the input from ppl whose experience has taught them to
understand what they are doing,
and who can tell me what works, and what doesn't, and why.
In a second post 2 hours after than the one you have replied to
I mentioned the amount of bass voltage which could be applied rose after
leaving the panels
alone to charge up for longer.
Yesterday I re-tested the response and bass voltages which could be
applied after leaving
the panels turned on overnight but found they'd become unable to take
more than a few volts
at 70Hz, and when a large voltage was applied, sounded like someting
became un-stuck.
I lowered the EHT from 2,700V to 2,000V,
and they seemed fine except for a huge 12dB resonance peak at 41 Hz,
which seemed to mar most music when turned up.
So I concluded that the charge in the membrane is unstable, and stiction
or membrane pulling is
unpredictable. I am putting in silicone "button" to maybe stop the
resonance where the membrane will flap
badly, and maybe glue felt strips 70mm wide down the centres of each
bass panel
on the outside of the rear stators. Perhaps the two measures wil damp
the resonances.
With EHT = -2,000V, sensitivity is down to 77dB/W/M, perfectly lousy, so
that an even greater drive voltage
is required.
I am investigating alternative coatings and techniques for the membrane
and stators.
I am back at square one with these speakers.
Patrick Turner.
Regards,
Ross Matheson
Auckland, NZ.