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Labelling Metalwork
In article ,
Ian Thompson-Bell wrote: I am building a tube based mic pre into a 19inch rack case which is painted black. I want to label the inputs, outputs and controls. What options are open to a hobbyist? RS do a rather nice anodised aluminium printing system. You use the supplied thin aluminium sheet and etch the print on it - using a dye. Colours are red green blue yellow and black plus of course the 'bare' aluminium. You do the artwork on your computer and print out full size to a transparency. Then expose the coated aluminium via that to UV light. Then a series of chemical processes. It's quite pricey - over 100 quid for a starter kit that will do several panels, but then so is having engraving or proper printing done - and it's extremely robust unlike letraset, etc. You glue the result onto the existing panel using supplied double sided sheet. The results can be superb - the only limits being your design skills and the colours available. But making the panel anodised black with natural ally coloured print looks very smart indeed. You can download the instructions from http://rswww.com/cgi-bin/bv/rswww/searchBrowseAction.do?N=0&name=SiteStandard&forwar @@@ @&BV_EngineID=cccdaddmlgekdhgcefeceeldgondhgh.0&ca cheID=uknetscape&Nr=avl:uk If that's too involved ;-) use http://rswww.com and do a search for part number 568-073. -- *Verbs HAS to agree with their subjects * Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
Labelling Metalwork
John Byrns wrote:
In article , Raymond Koonce wrote: I've done this with silk screen. It's a little fussy for a one-off job but it looks very nice when it's finished. Take a look at http://www.timebanditaudio.com/47%20amp/carmen47.html. Raymond, how did you pick the 47 for this amplifier? Your line of thought must have been rather interesting. Regards, John Byrns Hi John, Not entirely my idea. A friend built an amp using this tube and liked it. I had several pairs and some appropriate transformers, so I decided to build something with what I had. About the only thing I didn't have on hand was the copper chassis. All in all it's a nice amp, but I still have some issues with the 816s to resolve. I would like to have a small (2uF or so) cap on the input to the PS, but the 816s don't like it. Best regards, Raymond |
Labelling Metalwork
In article ,
Raymond Koonce wrote: Hi John, Not entirely my idea. A friend built an amp using this tube and liked it. I had several pairs and some appropriate transformers, so I decided to build something with what I had. About the only thing I didn't have on hand was the copper chassis. All in all it's a nice amp, but I still have some issues with the 816s to resolve. I would like to have a small (2uF or so) cap on the input to the PS, but the 816s don't like it. I don't follow you, why would you like a 2 uF capacitor on the input to the PS, is the B+ too low? Regards, John Byrns -- Surf my web pages at, http://fmamradios.com/ |
Labelling Metalwork
John Byrns wrote:
In article , Raymond Koonce wrote: Hi John, Not entirely my idea. A friend built an amp using this tube and liked it. I had several pairs and some appropriate transformers, so I decided to build something with what I had. About the only thing I didn't have on hand was the copper chassis. All in all it's a nice amp, but I still have some issues with the 816s to resolve. I would like to have a small (2uF or so) cap on the input to the PS, but the 816s don't like it. I don't follow you, why would you like a 2 uF capacitor on the input to the PS, is the B+ too low? Regards, John Byrns Yes, I'd like the B+ just a little higher and it's easy to do with a small cap if you're using a vacuum rectifier. The amp is pretty nice as is though. BR, Raymond |
Labelling Metalwork
Doug Bannard wrote:
"Ian Thompson-Bell" wrote in message ... I am building a tube based mic pre into a 19inch rack case which is painted black. I want to label the inputs, outputs and controls. What options are open to a hobbyist? Cheers Ian There are a number of options open to you: 1) The old way. Letraset (or similar) dry transfer letters. These require some skill and patience to apply, and if you do decide to go this route, make certain that the stock that you buy is fresh. If the transfers have been sitting around for five years, it's a crap shoot whether they'll transfer nicely to your panel or not. You'll also need to clear coat your panel after applying the letters so that they don't get rubbed off with use. I remember when I was at Neve, the designs for module front panels were done twice full size using Letraset then sent to the silk screeners.. 2) P-Touch label maker (made by Brother) or similar. These print self adhesive plastic labels, and the deluxe versions handle multiple fonts and character sizes. If you use the laminated tapes that are available, you can print black or white characters on a clear tape background, or, for your application, white characters on a black background would probably be satisfactory as well. That is probably my best/easiest bet. I have a Dymo electronic label printer and I think they do transparent stock. See: http://www.brother-usa.com/ptouch/ 3) If you like playing computer a lot you can print a transfer on clear self adhesive stock to cover your entire front panel, using a laser printer. This can look great if everything is scaled correctly and you get the transfer applied straight. That sounds interesting - only problem is how do you make hole for the post and switches? Thanks Doug |
Labelling Metalwork
Laurence Payne wrote:
On Sun, 23 Dec 2007 13:28:34 +0000, Ian Thompson-Bell wrote: I am building a tube based mic pre into a 19inch rack case which is painted black. I want to label the inputs, outputs and controls. What options are open to a hobbyist? Is this utility, or are you making up something to sell? It is for my own personal use. If the former, one of those label printers - the modern version of Dymo - will do the job. I worked with Dymo on their label printers many years ago - I even have one and I think they do transparent labels - looks like a good thing to try first. Cheers Ian |
Labelling Metalwork
Jon Yaeger wrote:
in article , Ian Thompson-Bell at wrote on 12/23/07 8:28 AM: I am building a tube based mic pre into a 19inch rack case which is painted black. I want to label the inputs, outputs and controls. What options are open to a hobbyist? Cheers Ian DATAK bran transfer letters are probably the most available and easy-to-use solution. Is this the same as Letraset or different in some fundamental way? Cheers Ian |
Labelling Metalwork
Raymond Koonce wrote:
Ian Thompson-Bell wrote: I am building a tube based mic pre into a 19inch rack case which is painted black. I want to label the inputs, outputs and controls. What options are open to a hobbyist? Cheers Ian Ian, I've done this with silk screen. It's a little fussy for a one-off job but it looks very nice when it's finished. Take a look at http://www.timebanditaudio.com/47%20amp/carmen47.html. Lovely piece of work Raymond. Cheers Ian |
Labelling Metalwork
Andre Jute wrote:
Ian Thompson-Bell wrote: I am building a tube based mic pre into a 19inch rack case which is painted black. I want to label the inputs, outputs and controls. What options are open to a hobbyist? Cheers Ian Undoubtedly the most professional way to do it is to design the art in a page layout or other vector art programme on your computer and have it professionally silkscreened onto the metal. major snippage Many Thanks Andre, some really good ideas there. I have saved your email for future reference. Cheers Ian |
Labelling Metalwork
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article , Ian Thompson-Bell wrote: I am building a tube based mic pre into a 19inch rack case which is painted black. I want to label the inputs, outputs and controls. What options are open to a hobbyist? RS do a rather nice anodised aluminium printing system. Major snippgae. Thanks Dave. I am in the UK so RS is a good option for me. I'll look into it. Cheers Ian |
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