I am building a tube based mic pre into a 19inch rack case which is
painted black. I want to label the inputs, outputs and controls. What
options are open to a hobbyist?

Cheers

Ian

"Ian Thompson-Bell" wrote in message
...
I am building a tube based mic pre into a 19inch rack case which is painted
black. I want to label the inputs, outputs and controls. What options are
open to a hobbyist?

Cheers

Ian

There are a number of options open to you:

1) The old way. Letraset (or similar) dry transfer letters. These require
some skill and patience to apply, and if you do decide to go this route,
make certain that the stock that you buy is fresh. If the transfers have
been sitting around for five years, it's a crap shoot whether they'll
transfer nicely to your panel or not. You'll also need to clear coat your
panel after applying the letters so that they don't get rubbed off with use.

2) P-Touch label maker (made by Brother) or similar. These print self
adhesive plastic labels, and the deluxe versions handle multiple fonts and
character sizes. If you use the laminated tapes that are available, you can
print black or white characters on a clear tape background, or, for your
application, white characters on a black background would probably be
satisfactory as well.

See: http://www.brother-usa.com/ptouch/

3) If you like playing computer a lot you can print a transfer on clear
self adhesive stock to cover your entire front panel, using a laser printer.
This can look great if everything is scaled correctly and you get the
transfer applied straight.

Personally, (2) is the method that I prefer and use regularly.

Best regards : Doug Bannard

Doug Bannard wrote:
"Ian Thompson-Bell" wrote in message
...
I am building a tube based mic pre into a 19inch rack case which is painted
black. I want to label the inputs, outputs and controls. What options are
open to a hobbyist?

Cheers

Ian

There are a number of options open to you:

1) The old way. Letraset (or similar) dry transfer letters. These require
some skill and patience to apply, and if you do decide to go this route,
make certain that the stock that you buy is fresh. If the transfers have
been sitting around for five years, it's a crap shoot whether they'll
transfer nicely to your panel or not. You'll also need to clear coat your
panel after applying the letters so that they don't get rubbed off with use.


I remember when I was at Neve, the designs for module front panels were
done twice full size using Letraset then sent to the silk screeners..

2) P-Touch label maker (made by Brother) or similar. These print self
adhesive plastic labels, and the deluxe versions handle multiple fonts and
character sizes. If you use the laminated tapes that are available, you can
print black or white characters on a clear tape background, or, for your
application, white characters on a black background would probably be
satisfactory as well.


That is probably my best/easiest bet. I have a Dymo electronic label
printer and I think they do transparent stock.

See: http://www.brother-usa.com/ptouch/

3) If you like playing computer a lot you can print a transfer on clear
self adhesive stock to cover your entire front panel, using a laser printer.
This can look great if everything is scaled correctly and you get the
transfer applied straight.


That sounds interesting - only problem is how do you make hole for the
post and switches?

Thanks Doug

"Ian Thompson-Bell" wrote in
message

3) If you like playing computer a lot you can print a
transfer on clear self adhesive stock to cover your
entire front panel, using a laser printer.

Or, you use an inkjet.

In either case you probably want to put a transparent layer over it by
several possible means.

This can look
great if everything is scaled correctly and you get the
transfer applied straight.

That sounds interesting - only problem is how do you make
hole for the post and switches?

You attach the adhesive stock to the pre-punched front panel, and then trim
the holes from the inside out with something sharp like an X-acto knife.

Or, if you are in a hurry, you make a cross-cut in the middle of the holes
and just push the pot or switch into the hole, using its threads to cut the
plastic stock to size.

On Sun, 23 Dec 2007 13:28:34 +0000, Ian Thompson-Bell
wrote:

I am building a tube based mic pre into a 19inch rack case which is
painted black. I want to label the inputs, outputs and controls. What
options are open to a hobbyist?

Is this utility, or are you making up something to sell? If the
former, one of those label printers - the modern version of Dymo -
will do the job. If you're going for an expensive/retro look you
could stamp lettering onto copper plate and rivet it on, have it
engraved... Ask your local metalworker shop for ideas.

Laurence Payne wrote:
On Sun, 23 Dec 2007 13:28:34 +0000, Ian Thompson-Bell
wrote:

I am building a tube based mic pre into a 19inch rack case which is
painted black. I want to label the inputs, outputs and controls. What
options are open to a hobbyist?

Is this utility, or are you making up something to sell?

It is for my own personal use.


If the
former, one of those label printers - the modern version of Dymo -
will do the job.

I worked with Dymo on their label printers many years ago - I even have
one and I think they do transparent labels - looks like a good thing to
try first.

Cheers

Ian

in article , Ian Thompson-Bell at
wrote on 12/23/07 8:28 AM:

I am building a tube based mic pre into a 19inch rack case which is
painted black. I want to label the inputs, outputs and controls. What
options are open to a hobbyist?

Cheers

Ian


DATAK bran transfer letters are probably the most available and easy-to-use
solution.

Letters or titles are rubbed on with a pencil and a contact lettering sheet.
The labels are affixed with a matte or gloss acrylic spray (there is also a
"nail polish" type brush-applied fixative, but it is very hard to get even
results).

Raw parts without circuitry can be baked in an oven at low temperature to
speed up the curing process.

I didn't see their website in a 60 second search, but here is a distributor:

http://minute-man.com/acatalog/DATAM..._Letters_bu_Da
tak.html

Or Digikey. The former has pictures.

Jon

Jon Yaeger wrote:
in article , Ian Thompson-Bell at
wrote on 12/23/07 8:28 AM:

I am building a tube based mic pre into a 19inch rack case which is
painted black. I want to label the inputs, outputs and controls. What
options are open to a hobbyist?

Cheers

Ian


DATAK bran transfer letters are probably the most available and easy-to-use
solution.

Is this the same as Letraset or different in some fundamental way?

Cheers

Ian

in article , Ian Thompson-Bell at
wrote on 12/23/07 4:12 PM:

Jon Yaeger wrote:
in article , Ian Thompson-Bell at
wrote on 12/23/07 8:28 AM:

I am building a tube based mic pre into a 19inch rack case which is
painted black. I want to label the inputs, outputs and controls. What
options are open to a hobbyist?

Cheers

Ian


DATAK bran transfer letters are probably the most available and easy-to-use
solution.

Is this the same as Letraset or different in some fundamental way?

Cheers

Ian


Ian,

I dunno because I haven't seen or tried the Letraset . . .

Ian Thompson-Bell wrote:
I am building a tube based mic pre into a 19inch rack case which is
painted black. I want to label the inputs, outputs and controls. What
options are open to a hobbyist?

Cheers

Ian

Ian,

I've done this with silk screen. It's a little fussy for a one-off job
but it looks very nice when it's finished. Take a look at
http://www.timebanditaudio.com/47%20amp/carmen47.html. Probably not
close to what you're doing, but you'll get the idea. I prepared the
artwork with a vector drafting program using scans of the layout paper
to locate the controls. I printed the artwork on clear film on a
plotter that I have access to. I used that film to expose the silk
screen. It took a few tries to get the screen right, but after that
it's easy to do. I sprayed a coat of lacquer over the lettering to
protect it.

Best regards and Happy Holidays,

Raymond