In article
,
D.M. Procida wrote:
I need (OK, want) some white phono cables, but white seems to be
reserved either for ludicrously expensive iPod phono leads, or for
white versions of the semi-disposable 49p leads.

White versions of the kind of thing that seems to sell for between £5
and £10 online would be OK.

Who makes and sells them, if anyone?

Or alternatively, some kind of white duct for the black phono leads
would do.

Not checked recently, but Maplin sold white coax by the metre so you could
make your own. With the added benefit of having it exactly the correct
length.

--
*Consciousness: That annoying time between naps.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article
,
D.M. Procida wrote:
I need (OK, want) some white phono cables, but white seems to be
reserved either for ludicrously expensive iPod phono leads, or for
white versions of the semi-disposable 49p leads.

White versions of the kind of thing that seems to sell for between £5
and £10 online would be OK.

Who makes and sells them, if anyone?

Or alternatively, some kind of white duct for the black phono leads
would do.

Not checked recently, but Maplin sold white coax by the metre so you could
make your own. With the added benefit of having it exactly the correct
length.

But can someone who thinks a 49p interconnect sounds worse than a £10
interconnect
be trusted with a soldering iron?

--
Eiron.

"Eiron" wrote in message
...
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article
,
D.M. Procida wrote:
I need (OK, want) some white phono cables, but white seems to be
reserved either for ludicrously expensive iPod phono leads, or for
white versions of the semi-disposable 49p leads.

White versions of the kind of thing that seems to sell for between £5
and £10 online would be OK.

Who makes and sells them, if anyone?

Or alternatively, some kind of white duct for the black phono leads
would do.

Not checked recently, but Maplin sold white coax by the metre so you
could
make your own. With the added benefit of having it exactly the correct
length.

But can someone who thinks a 49p interconnect sounds worse than a £10
interconnect
be trusted with a soldering iron?

If you are making RCA cables with coax, you should seriously consider using
compression-type RCA terminations. Only cutting and crimping is required.
IME they are highly reliable.

Now finding such a technically advanced product in the UK seems less than
trivial. Neither Maplin nor Farnell seem to list them.

Try uk eBay....

In article ,
Arny Krueger wrote:
If you are making RCA cables with coax, you should seriously consider
using compression-type RCA terminations. Only cutting and crimping is
required. IME they are highly reliable.

Now finding such a technically advanced product in the UK seems less
than trivial. Neither Maplin nor Farnell seem to list them.

Crimping is by far the best method of making a connection - assuming that
connection will get flexed and you crimp it correctly. Which means having
the correct crimp tool. Which are usually costly. For something like
phonos which aren't designed to be regularly removed and replaced a
soldered connection with decent strain relief will be fine. After all
pretty well every other 'connection' in your system will be soldered.

--
*Laugh alone and the world thinks you're an idiot.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In article ,
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,


Crimping is by far the best method of making a connection - assuming that
connection will get flexed and you crimp it correctly. Which means having
the correct crimp tool. Which are usually costly. For something like
phonos which aren't designed to be regularly removed and replaced a
soldered connection with decent strain relief will be fine. After all
pretty well every other 'connection' in your system will be soldered.

FWIW I have tended to prefer the 'gold' (coloured) phonos Maplin sold that
have a solder boot for the inner and a collet that grips the outer. I find
them easy to assemble and they grip the cable very well. The drawback is
that you need to choose the type which is correct for the outer (screen)
diameter of your cable. I used to keep a few of each size, but I think they
reduced the range of sizes on sale a few years ago.

Slainte,

Jim

--
Please use the address on the audiomisc page if you wish to email me.
Electronics http://www.st-and.ac.uk/~www_pa/Scot...o/electron.htm
Armstrong Audio http://www.audiomisc.co.uk/Armstrong/armstrong.html
Audio Misc http://www.audiomisc.co.uk/index.html

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article ,

Arny Krueger wrote:
If you are making RCA cables with coax, you should seriously consider
using compression-type RCA terminations. Only cutting and crimping is
required. IME they are highly reliable.

Now finding such a technically advanced product in the UK seems more
than trivial. Neither Maplin nor Farnell seem to list them.

Crimping is by far the best method of making a connection - assuming that
connection will get flexed and you crimp it correctly. Which means having
the correct crimp tool. Which are usually costly. For something like
phonos which aren't designed to be regularly removed and replaced a
soldered connection with decent strain relief will be fine. After all
pretty well every other 'connection' in your system will be soldered.

Compression fittings are a special case - the special tool is not a
precision tool and is optional. I've got the tool but I've installed a
number of them sucessfully using regular household or pump handle pliers.
They need to be sized to match the OD of the coax, which is not a problem
because there are a limited number of different kinds of coax that they are
likely to be used with - actually about 4, being RG58, RG59, RG6 and RG6Q.

They are widely used with RF and video because that's what coax is primarily
used for. I've got several in service in audio applications and they seem to
be holding up just fine. Their strong point is their tight grip on the
jacket and shield.

In article ,
Arny Krueger wrote:
Crimping is by far the best method of making a connection - assuming
that connection will get flexed and you crimp it correctly. Which
means having the correct crimp tool. Which are usually costly. For
something like phonos which aren't designed to be regularly removed
and replaced a soldered connection with decent strain relief will be
fine. After all pretty well every other 'connection' in your system
will be soldered.

Compression fittings are a special case - the special tool is not a
precision tool and is optional. I've got the tool but I've installed a
number of them sucessfully using regular household or pump handle
pliers. They need to be sized to match the OD of the coax, which is not
a problem because there are a limited number of different kinds of
coax that they are likely to be used with - actually about 4, being
RG58, RG59, RG6 and RG6Q.

They are widely used with RF and video because that's what coax is
primarily used for. I've got several in service in audio applications
and they seem to be holding up just fine. Their strong point is their
tight grip on the jacket and shield.

A 'tight grip' on the jacket is better achieved by glue or plastic welding.
Crimping to achieve a good long lasting electrical connection requires the
proper tool. If you don't have this soldering is a better option.

--
*If they arrest the Energizer Bunny, would they charge it with battery? *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote

A 'tight grip' on the jacket is better achieved by glue or plastic
welding.
Crimping to achieve a good long lasting electrical connection requires the
proper tool. If you don't have this soldering is a better option.


I agree entirely, crimped connectors fitted using pliers generally fail
quite early simply because the grip isn't tight enough. Unless you have the
correct crimping tool good quality solder-bucket connectors are much to be
prefered and are absolutely fine for audio. Unless making up leads is
something you do on a very regular basis there is no point in wasting money
buying a crimping tool.

David.

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in
message
In article
, Arny
Krueger wrote:
Crimping is by far the best method of making a
connection - assuming that connection will get flexed
and you crimp it correctly. Which means having the
correct crimp tool. Which are usually costly. For
something like phonos which aren't designed to be
regularly removed and replaced a soldered connection
with decent strain relief will be fine. After all
pretty well every other 'connection' in your system
will be soldered.

Compression fittings are a special case - the special
tool is not a precision tool and is optional. I've got
the tool but I've installed a number of them sucessfully
using regular household or pump handle pliers. They need
to be sized to match the OD of the coax, which is not a
problem because there are a limited number of different
kinds of coax that they are likely to be used with -
actually about 4, being RG58, RG59, RG6 and RG6Q.

They are widely used with RF and video because that's
what coax is primarily used for. I've got several in
service in audio applications and they seem to be
holding up just fine. Their strong point is their tight
grip on the jacket and shield.

A 'tight grip' on the jacket is better achieved by glue
or plastic welding. Crimping to achieve a good long
lasting electrical connection requires the proper tool.
If you don't have this soldering is a better option.

That sounds like tradiational conventional wisdom.

But regrettably it is obviously spoken by a person who has lacks actual
experience with compression-type RCAs.

Technology does change...

On Wed, 30 Dec 2009 07:13:04 -0500, "Arny Krueger"
wrote:

If you are making RCA cables with coax, you should seriously consider using
compression-type RCA terminations. Only cutting and crimping is required.
IME they are highly reliable.

Now finding such a technically advanced product in the UK seems less than
trivial. Neither Maplin nor Farnell seem to list them.

Try uk eBay....


Canford list them. They recommend them for video, for their
electrical properties. Not sure they'd make any difference for audio?
If this is for an application that needs frequent replugging, the real
answer is to choose a more robust connector type.