Hello,
Sorry for posting an off topic question but I know you all know your
electrics.

I'm trying to change some light switches for PIW switches so they come on
when my disabled brother walks into the room.
My problem is that the PIW switches require a live in, a live out and a
neutral and light switches in the UK only have a live in and a neutral.

Can I connect the live out to the neutral as well as the neutral to the
neutral as shown inn my diagram he

http://www.flickr.com/photos/4905729...in/photostream

The crossed out line is what don't have and want to replace with the dashed
line.
Being as the switch controller is drawing such a low current will this make
any difference to the outcome? Will they now be in series rather than
parallel and would this matter?

Thank you

David

Obviously one drawback would be that the bulb would be live at all times,
but would that matter? Would it only have 0.2W passing through the filament
when the switch was off?

D

On Wed, 12 Dec 2012 16:14:00 -0000, "David B"
wrote:

Hello,
Sorry for posting an off topic question but I know you all know your
electrics.

I'm trying to change some light switches for PIW switches so they come on
when my disabled brother walks into the room.
My problem is that the PIW switches require a live in, a live out and a
neutral and light switches in the UK only have a live in and a neutral.

Can I connect the live out to the neutral as well as the neutral to the
neutral as shown inn my diagram he

http://www.flickr.com/photos/4905729...in/photostream

The crossed out line is what don't have and want to replace with the dashed
line.
Being as the switch controller is drawing such a low current will this make
any difference to the outcome? Will they now be in series rather than
parallel and would this matter?

Thank you

David

Uk light switches have a permanent live in and a switched live out -
no neutral. You will need to run new cabling to the switch for this
job.

d

"Don Pearce" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 12 Dec 2012 16:14:00 -0000, "David B"
wrote:

Hello,
Sorry for posting an off topic question but I know you all know your
electrics.

I'm trying to change some light switches for PIW switches so they come on
when my disabled brother walks into the room.
My problem is that the PIW switches require a live in, a live out and a
neutral and light switches in the UK only have a live in and a neutral.

Can I connect the live out to the neutral as well as the neutral to the
neutral as shown inn my diagram he

http://www.flickr.com/photos/4905729...in/photostream

The crossed out line is what don't have and want to replace with the
dashed
line.
Being as the switch controller is drawing such a low current will this
make
any difference to the outcome? Will they now be in series rather than
parallel and would this matter?

Thank you

David

Uk light switches have a permanent live in and a switched live out -
no neutral. You will need to run new cabling to the switch for this
job.

d

Sorry, my terminology was wrong. Yes I really need one more cable as shown
crossed out in the diagram but why wouldn't it work anyway? (Excuse my
ignorance)
As far as I can see, in the off position it would be the same as having a
0.25A fuse in line with the controller (which should make no odds) and in
the on position the switch and bulb would be in series.
Would this not work?

D

"David B" wrote in message
...
"Don Pearce" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 12 Dec 2012 16:14:00 -0000, "David B"
wrote:

Hello,
Sorry for posting an off topic question but I know you all know your
electrics.

I'm trying to change some light switches for PIW switches so they come
on
when my disabled brother walks into the room.
My problem is that the PIW switches require a live in, a live out and a
neutral and light switches in the UK only have a live in and a neutral.

Can I connect the live out to the neutral as well as the neutral to the
neutral as shown inn my diagram he

http://www.flickr.com/photos/4905729...in/photostream

The crossed out line is what don't have and want to replace with the
dashed
line.
Being as the switch controller is drawing such a low current will this
make
any difference to the outcome? Will they now be in series rather than
parallel and would this matter?

Thank you

David

Uk light switches have a permanent live in and a switched live out -
no neutral. You will need to run new cabling to the switch for this
job.

d

Sorry, my terminology was wrong. Yes I really need one more cable as
shown crossed out in the diagram but why wouldn't it work anyway? (Excuse
my ignorance)
As far as I can see, in the off position it would be the same as having a
0.25A fuse in line with the controller (which should make no odds) and in
the on position the switch and bulb would be in series.
Would this not work?

D

Oh, no they would be in both series and parallel when in the on position but
why would this matter? The controller would still be getting a current and
so would the bulb.

D

On Wed, 12 Dec 2012 16:39:06 -0000, "David B"
wrote:

"Don Pearce" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 12 Dec 2012 16:14:00 -0000, "David B"
wrote:

Hello,
Sorry for posting an off topic question but I know you all know your
electrics.

I'm trying to change some light switches for PIW switches so they come on
when my disabled brother walks into the room.
My problem is that the PIW switches require a live in, a live out and a
neutral and light switches in the UK only have a live in and a neutral.

Can I connect the live out to the neutral as well as the neutral to the
neutral as shown inn my diagram he

http://www.flickr.com/photos/4905729...in/photostream

The crossed out line is what don't have and want to replace with the
dashed
line.
Being as the switch controller is drawing such a low current will this
make
any difference to the outcome? Will they now be in series rather than
parallel and would this matter?

Thank you

David

Uk light switches have a permanent live in and a switched live out -
no neutral. You will need to run new cabling to the switch for this
job.

d

Sorry, my terminology was wrong. Yes I really need one more cable as shown
crossed out in the diagram but why wouldn't it work anyway? (Excuse my
ignorance)
As far as I can see, in the off position it would be the same as having a
0.25A fuse in line with the controller (which should make no odds) and in
the on position the switch and bulb would be in series.
Would this not work?

D

\do you think you could redraw the diagrams? It isn't clear what is
going on as they stand. The first one shows the controller being
bypassed by the switch. That says to me that the light can never be
turned off. That is not allowed. In the second diagram nothing at all
would happen because nothing is connected to anything else.

d

"Don Pearce" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 12 Dec 2012 16:39:06 -0000, "David B"
wrote:

"Don Pearce" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 12 Dec 2012 16:14:00 -0000, "David B"
wrote:

Hello,
Sorry for posting an off topic question but I know you all know your
electrics.

I'm trying to change some light switches for PIW switches so they come
on
when my disabled brother walks into the room.
My problem is that the PIW switches require a live in, a live out and
a
neutral and light switches in the UK only have a live in and a
neutral.

Can I connect the live out to the neutral as well as the neutral to
the
neutral as shown inn my diagram he

http://www.flickr.com/photos/4905729...in/photostream

The crossed out line is what don't have and want to replace with the
dashed
line.
Being as the switch controller is drawing such a low current will this
make
any difference to the outcome? Will they now be in series rather than
parallel and would this matter?

Thank you

David

Uk light switches have a permanent live in and a switched live out -
no neutral. You will need to run new cabling to the switch for this
job.

d

Sorry, my terminology was wrong. Yes I really need one more cable as
shown
crossed out in the diagram but why wouldn't it work anyway? (Excuse my
ignorance)
As far as I can see, in the off position it would be the same as having a
0.25A fuse in line with the controller (which should make no odds) and in
the on position the switch and bulb would be in series.
Would this not work?

D

\do you think you could redraw the diagrams? It isn't clear what is
going on as they stand. The first one shows the controller being
bypassed by the switch. That says to me that the light can never be
turned off. That is not allowed. In the second diagram nothing at all
would happen because nothing is connected to anything else.

d

I will do tomorrow.
Ignore the diagram where the black lines came out white.

The PIW movement sensor is all shown in blue, the controller controls the
switch.
I want to use the switched live out as the neutral.

D

On 12/12/2012 16:39, David B wrote:
"Don Pearce" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 12 Dec 2012 16:14:00 -0000, "David B"
wrote:

Hello,
Sorry for posting an off topic question but I know you all know your
electrics.

I'm trying to change some light switches for PIW switches so they
come on
when my disabled brother walks into the room.
My problem is that the PIW switches require a live in, a live out and a
neutral and light switches in the UK only have a live in and a neutral.

Can I connect the live out to the neutral as well as the neutral to the
neutral as shown inn my diagram he

http://www.flickr.com/photos/4905729...in/photostream

The crossed out line is what don't have and want to replace with the
dashed
line.
Being as the switch controller is drawing such a low current will
this make
any difference to the outcome? Will they now be in series rather than
parallel and would this matter?

Thank you

David

Uk light switches have a permanent live in and a switched live out -
no neutral. You will need to run new cabling to the switch for this
job.

d

Sorry, my terminology was wrong. Yes I really need one more cable as
shown crossed out in the diagram but why wouldn't it work anyway?
(Excuse my ignorance)
As far as I can see, in the off position it would be the same as having
a 0.25A fuse in line with the controller (which should make no odds) and
in the on position the switch and bulb would be in series.
Would this not work?


In the on position there would be no voltage for the "switch controller"
in your diagram so it would turn itself off.

You could mount the sensors on the ceiling near the light,
where you can access a switched live and a neutral.
Or you could try to feed another wire up the duct from the light switch
to the light to pick up a neutral. For the ground floor you would probably
have to lift the floorboards upstairs. For the bedrooms, loft access
will do.

--
Eiron.