Linn Majik
 

Picked up a broken Linn Majik amp the other day, and soon got it fixed.

It has extremely basic controls on the front - so obviously is intended to
have a remote control. Genuine Linn ones seem to fetch a fortune on Ebay.
Anyone know which generic ones will work?

--
*Stable Relationships Are For Horses. *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Linn Majik
 

On 02/07/15 16:54, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
Picked up a broken Linn Majik amp the other day, and soon got it fixed.

It has extremely basic controls on the front - so obviously is intended to
have a remote control. Genuine Linn ones seem to fetch a fortune on Ebay.
Anyone know which generic ones will work?

One-For-All universal remote controls have a couple of device codes for
the Linn Majik - 1089 and 1189. If you put the model number of one of
their remotes into this page and search for Linn Majik you can confirm
that a particular model of remote has the code built in:

http://websupport.uebv.com/?lang=EN

--
╔�╦�╦�����╦���╗
â•‘ â•‘ â•‘ â•‘ â•‘
╔�� ║ ║ ║ ║ ║ ╔��
╚���╩�╩�╩�╩�╩�� -- JimP.

Linn Majik
 

On 02/07/2015 16:54, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
Picked up a broken Linn Majik amp the other day, and soon got it fixed.

It has extremely basic controls on the front - so obviously is intended to
have a remote control. Genuine Linn ones seem to fetch a fortune on Ebay.
Anyone know which generic ones will work?

The Logitech database features three entries for Linn Majik; Majik-I,
Majik DS and Majik DS-I. Therefore any Harmony remote would work, if one
of these designations matches that of the amp.

Linn Majik
 

On 3/07/2015 1:54 AM, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
Picked up a broken Linn Majik amp the other day, and soon got it fixed.

It has extremely basic controls on the front - so obviously is intended to
have a remote control. Genuine Linn ones seem to fetch a fortune on Ebay.
Anyone know which generic ones will work?


**Agreed with the Logitech Harmony approach. Best thing for those
odd-ball devices.

--
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www.rageaudio.com.au

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Linn Majik
 

In article ,
Trevor Wilson wrote:
On 3/07/2015 1:54 AM, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
Picked up a broken Linn Majik amp the other day, and soon got it fixed.

It has extremely basic controls on the front - so obviously is
intended to have a remote control. Genuine Linn ones seem to fetch a
fortune on Ebay. Anyone know which generic ones will work?


**Agreed with the Logitech Harmony approach. Best thing for those
odd-ball devices.

Thing is they cost more than a genuine Linn one. ;-)

--
*Age is a very high price to pay for maturity.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Linn Majik
 

On 7/3/15 4:56 AM, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article , Trevor Wilson
wrote:
On 3/07/2015 1:54 AM, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
Picked up a broken Linn Majik amp the other day, and soon got it
fixed.

It has extremely basic controls on the front - so obviously is
intended to have a remote control. Genuine Linn ones seem to
fetch a fortune on Ebay. Anyone know which generic ones will
work?


**Agreed with the Logitech Harmony approach. Best thing for those
odd-ball devices.

Thing is they cost more than a genuine Linn one. ;-)

My Arcam remote works on my Linn Majik.

Stephen

Linn Majik
 

In article ,
MiNe109 wrote:
On 7/3/15 4:56 AM, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article , Trevor Wilson
wrote:
On 3/07/2015 1:54 AM, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
Picked up a broken Linn Majik amp the other day, and soon got it
fixed.

It has extremely basic controls on the front - so obviously is
intended to have a remote control. Genuine Linn ones seem to
fetch a fortune on Ebay. Anyone know which generic ones will
work?


**Agreed with the Logitech Harmony approach. Best thing for those
odd-ball devices.

Thing is they cost more than a genuine Linn one. ;-)

My Arcam remote works on my Linn Majik.

All I've really found is it is one of the Philips protocols, if that's the
correct name.

--
*Most people have more than the average number of legs*

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Linn Majik
 

On 3/07/2015 7:56 PM, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Trevor Wilson wrote:
On 3/07/2015 1:54 AM, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
Picked up a broken Linn Majik amp the other day, and soon got it fixed.

It has extremely basic controls on the front - so obviously is
intended to have a remote control. Genuine Linn ones seem to fetch a
fortune on Ebay. Anyone know which generic ones will work?


**Agreed with the Logitech Harmony approach. Best thing for those
odd-ball devices.

Thing is they cost more than a genuine Linn one. ;-)


**They're less than 40 Bucks (20 Squid) over here.

--
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www.rageaudio.com.au

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Linn Majik
 

In article ,
Trevor Wilson wrote:
On 3/07/2015 7:56 PM, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Trevor Wilson wrote:
On 3/07/2015 1:54 AM, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
Picked up a broken Linn Majik amp the other day, and soon got it fixed.

It has extremely basic controls on the front - so obviously is
intended to have a remote control. Genuine Linn ones seem to fetch a
fortune on Ebay. Anyone know which generic ones will work?


**Agreed with the Logitech Harmony approach. Best thing for those
odd-ball devices.

Thing is they cost more than a genuine Linn one. ;-)


**They're less than 40 Bucks (20 Squid) over here.

Which one? There seem to be lots of different ones with the same name -
and up to about 150 quid.

--
*Remember not to forget that which you do not need to know.*

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Linn Majik
 

On 4/07/2015 9:15 AM, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Trevor Wilson wrote:
On 3/07/2015 7:56 PM, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Trevor Wilson wrote:
On 3/07/2015 1:54 AM, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
Picked up a broken Linn Majik amp the other day, and soon got it fixed.

It has extremely basic controls on the front - so obviously is
intended to have a remote control. Genuine Linn ones seem to fetch a
fortune on Ebay. Anyone know which generic ones will work?


**Agreed with the Logitech Harmony approach. Best thing for those
odd-ball devices.

Thing is they cost more than a genuine Linn one. ;-)


**They're less than 40 Bucks (20 Squid) over here.

Which one? There seem to be lots of different ones with the same name -
and up to about 150 quid.


**The cheapest one, of course. I rather like the nice, colour screen
models, which are sometimes on special for less than 100 Bucks.
Nonetheless, I've used this one:

http://www.dicksmith.com.au/tv-video...ol-dsau-cn3609

On special, I've seen them for around 30 Bucks. I no longer bother with
'no-name' remotes, as the Logitech stuff works so nicely.

--
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www.rageaudio.com.au

---
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Linn Majik
 

How can you copy the codes if you do not have the original remote though?
Brian

--
From the Sofa of Brian Gaff Reply address is active
"Trevor Wilson" wrote in message
...
On 4/07/2015 9:15 AM, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Trevor Wilson wrote:
On 3/07/2015 7:56 PM, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Trevor Wilson wrote:
On 3/07/2015 1:54 AM, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
Picked up a broken Linn Majik amp the other day, and soon got it
fixed.

It has extremely basic controls on the front - so obviously is
intended to have a remote control. Genuine Linn ones seem to fetch a
fortune on Ebay. Anyone know which generic ones will work?


**Agreed with the Logitech Harmony approach. Best thing for those
odd-ball devices.

Thing is they cost more than a genuine Linn one. ;-)


**They're less than 40 Bucks (20 Squid) over here.

Which one? There seem to be lots of different ones with the same name -
and up to about 150 quid.


**The cheapest one, of course. I rather like the nice, colour screen
models, which are sometimes on special for less than 100 Bucks.
Nonetheless, I've used this one:

http://www.dicksmith.com.au/tv-video...ol-dsau-cn3609

On special, I've seen them for around 30 Bucks. I no longer bother with
'no-name' remotes, as the Logitech stuff works so nicely.

--
Trevor Wilson
www.rageaudio.com.au

---
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Linn Majik
 

In article ,
Trevor Wilson wrote:
Which one? There seem to be lots of different ones with the same name -
and up to about 150 quid.


**The cheapest one, of course. I rather like the nice, colour screen
models, which are sometimes on special for less than 100 Bucks.
Nonetheless, I've used this one:

http://www.dicksmith.com.au/tv-video...ol-dsau-cn3609

On special, I've seen them for around 30 Bucks. I no longer bother with
'no-name' remotes, as the Logitech stuff works so nicely.

The 350 appears to be about £50 here. Which is more than a good used Linn
remote goes for on Ebay. They tend to make about £30.

If I could be sure it would work properly, might be worth not having to
wait for a used Linn at the right price.

Not actually a lover of Logitech. Had one of their wireless keyboards and
mouse - both with a so called lifetime warranty. Both were looking very
scruffy after a short time - the letters on the keyboard keys worn off on
the most used keys. They said this just fair wear and tear.

--
*Why is the word abbreviation so long?

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Linn Majik
 

In article ,
Brian-Gaff wrote:
How can you copy the codes if you do not have the original remote though?

They give you a list of the control codes protocol numbers by maker.
Thousands of them. You enter the correct four digit code via the handset,
and it should then work. Assuming they have the correct 4 digit code, of
course. Which I doubt they'd have for a Linn. ;-)

--
*Some days you're the dog, some days the hydrant.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Linn Majik
 

On 4/07/2015 8:06 PM, Brian-Gaff wrote:
How can you copy the codes if you do not have the original remote though?
Brian


**That's not how the Logitech remotes work. There's a little USB socket
in the top (or bottom) of the remotes. Plug a lead from the remote into
a computer, go on-line and move through the process on the screen to
program your remote. The system allows for easy macro set-ups and has
error checking built-in. When I set them up for clients, I suggest that
if changes are made, they should consult with a 12 year old, who can
usually manage the process easily and painlessly. It's way overkill for
setting up a single remote, but the cost is so low (here in Oz) that it
is a no-brainer. If you guys are being stung to the tune of 50 Squid for
one of their remotes, it may be better to go on-line and find one. Or,
perhaps, complain to the regulatory people who deal with pricing.
Clearly, Poms are being ripped off.

OTOH, here is what I found this morning:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Logitech-H...em2c9ce3 77d0

A beaut remote. Very powerful.

This will do the job:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Logitech-H...em3aad4d b7a9

WAY better than 50 Squid (cheaper than in Oz):

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Logitech-H...em5420a8 8629


Do I have to come over and teach you guys how to use the internet?


--
Trevor Wilson
www.rageaudio.com.au

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Linn Majik
 

On 4/07/2015 8:18 PM, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Trevor Wilson wrote:
Which one? There seem to be lots of different ones with the same name -
and up to about 150 quid.


**The cheapest one, of course. I rather like the nice, colour screen
models, which are sometimes on special for less than 100 Bucks.
Nonetheless, I've used this one:

http://www.dicksmith.com.au/tv-video...ol-dsau-cn3609

On special, I've seen them for around 30 Bucks. I no longer bother with
'no-name' remotes, as the Logitech stuff works so nicely.

The 350 appears to be about £50 here. Which is more than a good used Linn
remote goes for on Ebay. They tend to make about £30.

**Here's what I found after about 3 minutes of searching:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Logitech-H...em5420a8 8629

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Logitech-H...em3aad4d b7a9

Personally, I'd buy one of these and control ALL your equipment, plus a
few of your neighbours' as well:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Logitech-H...em2c9ce3 77d0


If I could be sure it would work properly, might be worth not having to
wait for a used Linn at the right price.

**Check out the Logitech site. They're quite helpful.


Not actually a lover of Logitech. Had one of their wireless keyboards and
mouse - both with a so called lifetime warranty. Both were looking very
scruffy after a short time - the letters on the keyboard keys worn off on
the most used keys. They said this just fair wear and tear.


**Fair enough. I'm typing on a Logitech keyboard now (and matching RF
mouse). Several letters have worn off, but the damned thing still works
fine (as does the mouse). Mind you, my old IBM PS/2 keyboard was
designed to survive a nuclear holocaust. I used to hammed the crap out
of it, back in the 1980s when I played a lot of games. Damned thing
still works flawlessly. But, realistically, no one can afford to build
keyboards like that anymore.


--
Trevor Wilson
www.rageaudio.com.au

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Linn Majik
 

On 4/07/2015 10:32 PM, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Brian-Gaff wrote:
How can you copy the codes if you do not have the original remote though?

They give you a list of the control codes protocol numbers by maker.
Thousands of them. You enter the correct four digit code via the handset,
and it should then work. Assuming they have the correct 4 digit code, of
course. Which I doubt they'd have for a Linn. ;-)


**No, that is not how the Logitech systems works at all. You programme
the remote via a USB cable connected to your computer. You go on-line
and tell the Logitech people what you have (brand, model number, etc)
and it feeds the codes direct to your remote. You then go and test the
remote with your appliance. If it doesn't work, you plug it back in and
tell Logitech what doesn't work, whereupon it will continue searching
for the correct codes. I betcha it has the codes for your Linn.

--
Trevor Wilson
www.rageaudio.com.au

---
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https://www.avast.com/antivirus

Linn Majik
 

In article , Trevor Wilson
wrote:
On 4/07/2015 10:32 PM, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article , Brian-Gaff
wrote:
How can you copy the codes if you do not have the original remote
though?

They give you a list of the control codes protocol numbers by maker.
Thousands of them. You enter the correct four digit code via the
handset, and it should then work. Assuming they have the correct 4
digit code, of course. Which I doubt they'd have for a Linn. ;-)


**No, that is not how the Logitech systems works at all. You programme
the remote via a USB cable connected to your computer. You go on-line
and tell the Logitech people what you have (brand, model number, etc)
and it feeds the codes direct to your remote.

So you have to let someone else run software on your machine? Or do they
'simply' let you fetch an executable you have to run blind?

Or do they provide a data file and a simple explanation of how to get it
into the remote by some standard method like telnet, ftp, etc?

That raises all kinds of questions like:

How do you know the execution doesn't introduce some form of malware, etc,
into the host machine you use?

Does it require you to have bought and use a closed-source OS from an
foreign (i.e. non-UK, non-EU) company beyond the jurisdiction of your local
law?

Jim

--
Please use the address on the audiomisc page if you wish to email me.
Electronics http://www.st-and.ac.uk/~www_pa/Scot...o/electron.htm
Armstrong Audio http://www.audiomisc.co.uk/Armstrong/armstrong.html
Audio Misc http://www.audiomisc.co.uk/index.html

Linn Majik
 

In article ,
Trevor Wilson wrote:
On 4/07/2015 10:32 PM, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Brian-Gaff wrote:
How can you copy the codes if you do not have the original remote though?

They give you a list of the control codes protocol numbers by maker.
Thousands of them. You enter the correct four digit code via the handset,
and it should then work. Assuming they have the correct 4 digit code, of
course. Which I doubt they'd have for a Linn. ;-)


**No, that is not how the Logitech systems works at all. You programme
the remote via a USB cable connected to your computer. You go on-line
and tell the Logitech people what you have (brand, model number, etc)
and it feeds the codes direct to your remote. You then go and test the
remote with your appliance. If it doesn't work, you plug it back in and
tell Logitech what doesn't work, whereupon it will continue searching
for the correct codes. I betcha it has the codes for your Linn.

Thanks, Trevor. Looks like the way forward.

--
*I used up all my sick days so I called in dead

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Linn Majik
 

On 5/07/2015 6:33 PM, Jim Lesurf wrote:
In article , Trevor Wilson
wrote:
On 4/07/2015 10:32 PM, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article , Brian-Gaff
wrote:
How can you copy the codes if you do not have the original remote
though?

They give you a list of the control codes protocol numbers by maker.
Thousands of them. You enter the correct four digit code via the
handset, and it should then work. Assuming they have the correct 4
digit code, of course. Which I doubt they'd have for a Linn. ;-)


**No, that is not how the Logitech systems works at all. You programme
the remote via a USB cable connected to your computer. You go on-line
and tell the Logitech people what you have (brand, model number, etc)
and it feeds the codes direct to your remote.

So you have to let someone else run software on your machine? Or do they
'simply' let you fetch an executable you have to run blind?

Or do they provide a data file and a simple explanation of how to get it
into the remote by some standard method like telnet, ftp, etc?

That raises all kinds of questions like:

How do you know the execution doesn't introduce some form of malware, etc,
into the host machine you use?

Does it require you to have bought and use a closed-source OS from an
foreign (i.e. non-UK, non-EU) company beyond the jurisdiction of your local
law?

**I missed your smiley. You are kidding, right?

It's a remote control.
You download the codes to allow the remote to function with specific
appliances.



--
Trevor Wilson
www.rageaudio.com.au

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Linn Majik
 

In article , Trevor Wilson
wrote:
On 5/07/2015 6:33 PM, Jim Lesurf wrote:
In article , Trevor Wilson
wrote:
On 4/07/2015 10:32 PM, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article , Brian-Gaff
wrote:
How can you copy the codes if you do not have the original remote
though?

They give you a list of the control codes protocol numbers by maker.
Thousands of them. You enter the correct four digit code via the
handset, and it should then work. Assuming they have the correct 4
digit code, of course. Which I doubt they'd have for a Linn. ;-)


**No, that is not how the Logitech systems works at all. You
programme the remote via a USB cable connected to your computer. You
go on-line and tell the Logitech people what you have (brand, model
number, etc) and it feeds the codes direct to your remote.

So you have to let someone else run software on your machine? Or do
they 'simply' let you fetch an executable you have to run blind?

Or do they provide a data file and a simple explanation of how to get
it into the remote by some standard method like telnet, ftp, etc?

That raises all kinds of questions like:

How do you know the execution doesn't introduce some form of malware,
etc, into the host machine you use?

Does it require you to have bought and use a closed-source OS from an
foreign (i.e. non-UK, non-EU) company beyond the jurisdiction of your
local law?

**I missed your smiley. You are kidding, right?

Nope.

I read your "You go online...", "via USB cable", and "...it feeds the code
direct to your remote". To me that seems to imply fetching and running an
executable. Hence my questions to clarify precisely what is going on.

Did you mean "they give you a code string to type into the remote"?

It's a remote control. You download the codes to allow the remote to
function with specific appliances.

That doesn't clarify what I'm asking about *how* this is done, or if it can
be done using any OS, etc. Note that "any OS" isn't a synonym for "Windows
or Mac". :-)

Jim

--
Please use the address on the audiomisc page if you wish to email me.
Electronics http://www.st-and.ac.uk/~www_pa/Scot...o/electron.htm
Armstrong Audio http://www.audiomisc.co.uk/Armstrong/armstrong.html
Audio Misc http://www.audiomisc.co.uk/index.html

Linn Majik
 

On 6/07/2015 7:00 PM, Jim Lesurf wrote:
In article , Trevor Wilson
wrote:
On 5/07/2015 6:33 PM, Jim Lesurf wrote:
In article , Trevor Wilson
wrote:
On 4/07/2015 10:32 PM, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article , Brian-Gaff
wrote:
How can you copy the codes if you do not have the original remote
though?

They give you a list of the control codes protocol numbers by maker.
Thousands of them. You enter the correct four digit code via the
handset, and it should then work. Assuming they have the correct 4
digit code, of course. Which I doubt they'd have for a Linn. ;-)


**No, that is not how the Logitech systems works at all. You
programme the remote via a USB cable connected to your computer. You
go on-line and tell the Logitech people what you have (brand, model
number, etc) and it feeds the codes direct to your remote.

So you have to let someone else run software on your machine? Or do
they 'simply' let you fetch an executable you have to run blind?

Or do they provide a data file and a simple explanation of how to get
it into the remote by some standard method like telnet, ftp, etc?

That raises all kinds of questions like:

How do you know the execution doesn't introduce some form of malware,
etc, into the host machine you use?

Does it require you to have bought and use a closed-source OS from an
foreign (i.e. non-UK, non-EU) company beyond the jurisdiction of your
local law?

**I missed your smiley. You are kidding, right?

Nope.

I read your "You go online...", "via USB cable", and "...it feeds the code
direct to your remote". To me that seems to imply fetching and running an
executable. Hence my questions to clarify precisely what is going on.

Did you mean "they give you a code string to type into the remote"?

**No. The remote is programmed directly with the codes via the USB
connection.


It's a remote control. You download the codes to allow the remote to
function with specific appliances.

That doesn't clarify what I'm asking about *how* this is done, or if it can
be done using any OS, etc. Note that "any OS" isn't a synonym for "Windows
or Mac". :-)

**I suspect you over-estimate the intelligence inside the remote control.


--
Trevor Wilson
www.rageaudio.com.au

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Linn Majik
 

I've found an instruction booklet for this amp online, and it says:-

RC5 Amplifier address. 0=16
1=19

Leave at 16 for handset.

Not quite sure what this refers to given most of the codes seem to be 4
digit ones?

I have a few other remotes some of which claim to be programmable to
control extra devices. But finding the instructions may take some time.
;-)

A Philips one for a VCR operates the volume control, but nothing else.
If I could find one which does volume and mute and channel I'd probably
settle for that - before lashing out for an expensive one.

--
*When cheese gets its picture taken, what does it say? *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Linn Majik
 

On 06/07/15 15:47, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
I've found an instruction booklet for this amp online, and it says:-

RC5 Amplifier address. 0=16
1=19

Leave at 16 for handset.

Not quite sure what this refers to given most of the codes seem to be 4
digit ones?

Those are the two bytes of the address in the RC5 bit stream. It is
highly unlikely that will have any relation to the code from a universal
remote manufacturer.

I have a few other remotes some of which claim to be programmable to
control extra devices. But finding the instructions may take some time.
;-)

A Philips one for a VCR operates the volume control, but nothing else.
If I could find one which does volume and mute and channel I'd probably
settle for that - before lashing out for an expensive one.

The better One-For-All ones allow you to re-program the keys to send
specific codes. There are usually only a maximum of 256 key codes (as
opposed to device codes), so once you have a working volume button you
either need to try up to 255 of the possibilities, or contact them for
support (if they still do that). If you have a One-For-All manual,
programming of additional codes is covered in the section called "Key
Magic". Just trying and individual code before you program it is done by
pressing the magic key followed by the number of the code you want to
try. Don't be put off if your manual doesn't have the "Key Magic"
section - sometimes it's there despite not being in the documentation.

--
╔�╦�╦�����╦���╗
â•‘ â•‘ â•‘ â•‘ â•‘
╔�� ║ ║ ║ ║ ║ ╔��
╚���╩�╩�╩�╩�╩�� -- JimP.

Linn Majik
 

On 06/07/2015 10:42, Trevor Wilson wrote:

**No. The remote is programmed directly with the codes via the USB
connection.

Trevor, it isn't.

USB will connect your computer to the remote. You then need something on
the computer which will send the right sequence of bytes down the USB.
USB will tell you how to send the bytes, but not what they are.

You're running Windows 7 on a 64-bit Intel processor. You've installed a
program to program the remote, even if you don't know it.

Andy

Linn Majik
 

You're running Windows 7 on a 64-bit Intel processor. You've installed a
program to program the remote, even if you don't know it.

Andy

It might well be written in JavaScript. The same program could then run
in Mac/Windows/Linux etc. so long as a JavaScript enabled browser was
installed.

Linn Majik
 

In article , Sumatriptan
wrote:


You're running Windows 7 on a 64-bit Intel processor. You've installed
a program to program the remote, even if you don't know it.

Andy

It might well be written in JavaScript. The same program could then run
in Mac/Windows/Linux etc. so long as a JavaScript enabled browser was
installed.

If its 'pure' JavaScript then OTOH it means it will essentially be source
code, so could be checked. OTOH it may mean its a dialect that not all
browsers can correctly run - or have permission to access the relevant
hardware. The term 'JavaScript' can be used to cover at least three
different but vaguely similar scripting languages, each of which probably
have variations introduced over the years. As I recall, there was

JavaScript, JScript, and something like ECMAScript (or whatever the
acronym) all competing to be the scripting language. Or has that all long
been resolved? I've not bothered with it for many years.

If you mean 'Java' that's a different bag of nails.

So that might be a step forward, but doesn't actually resolve all the
potential issues I asked about.

I can see that the makers may not want to have to explain things to users
like how to run, say, telnet, and download a sequence. But something like
this must be happening.

Jim

--
Please use the address on the audiomisc page if you wish to email me.
Electronics http://www.st-and.ac.uk/~www_pa/Scot...o/electron.htm
Armstrong Audio http://www.audiomisc.co.uk/Armstrong/armstrong.html
Audio Misc http://www.audiomisc.co.uk/index.html

Linn Majik
 

I can see that the makers may not want to have to explain things to users
like how to run, say, telnet, and download a sequence. But something like
this must be happening.


I went to the Logitech Harmony remote setup page and immediately found
an invitation to download and install 'MyHarmony desktop software' for
Windows XP SP3 and/or Mac 10.6. followed by the usual disclaimers page.
So 'something' definitely happens.

Linn Majik
 

In article:

Sumatriptan says...

I went to the Logitech Harmony remote setup page and immediately found
an invitation to download and install 'MyHarmony desktop software' for
Windows XP SP3 and/or Mac 10.6. followed by the usual disclaimers page.
So 'something' definitely happens.

I should hope it does, the remote would be pretty useless without it!

A couple of days ago when Jim posted his concerns about trusting the
software and the possibility of malware being introduced, I downloaded
and installed the MyHarmony software on this laptop.
..
The download, a 400KB executable named MyHarmony-App.exe was checked
with Microsoft Security Essentials anti virus and uploaded to
https://www.virustotal.com/ for an on-line scan, both reported nothing
found.

I then looked inside the file using Resource Hacker
http://www.angusj.com/resourcehacker/
and HexEdit
http://www.hexedit.com/

and couldn't see anything out of the ordinary.

I started up Nirsoft DNS sniffer
http://www.nirsoft.net/utils/dns_query_sniffer.html
and currports.
http://www.nirsoft.net/utils/cports.html
also running (as always) were WinPatrol, WinPrivacy and Comodo programs
manager.

I then started the MyHarmony-app which connected to app.myharmony.com
and downloaded and ran what appears to be a front end to a web based
app which allows one to create a Harmony account and "Set up your
harmony" I created an account, then logged out of it.

I then uninstalled the MyHarmony thing using the standard Windows
method and it uninstalled cleanly leaving no leftover files, folders or
registry entries.

The whole process was painless and I thought it a well behaved app
which did nothing naughty.
I then forgot to post the results till I read this follow up, (Try and
avoid having a stroke, the loss of short term memory is very hard to
cope with:-() so I went through the whole rigmarole again just now with
the same results.

I must say I'm impressed with the Harmony remote, I have a a couple of
One For All universals which are good but limited in the number of
items that can be controlled, so I may look into it further when/if my
latest ebay buy arrives from Shenzen
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/131465808261


--
Ken O'Meara

List of UK hi-fi & audio dealers:
http://unsteadyken.esy.es/

Linn Majik
 

On 07/07/2015 19:02, UnsteadyKen wrote:


The whole process was painless and I thought it a well behaved app
which did nothing naughty.



That all seems very sensible. If everyone were as careful as you then
malware would cease to be much of an issue.

I was just agreeing with Jim that some sort of software had to run on
the PC to download the required remote codes from a website and send
them via USB to the remote controller itself. And now you have confirmed
that.

Linn Majik
 

On 07/07/2015 19:02, UnsteadyKen wrote:

In article:

Sumatriptan says...

I went to the Logitech Harmony remote setup page and immediately found
an invitation to download and install 'MyHarmony desktop software' for
Windows XP SP3 and/or Mac 10.6. followed by the usual disclaimers page.
So 'something' definitely happens.

I should hope it does, the remote would be pretty useless without it!

A couple of days ago when Jim posted his concerns about trusting the
software and the possibility of malware being introduced, I downloaded
and installed the MyHarmony software on this laptop.


Despite the concerns? ;-)

I decided to live a little too, and resurrected a Harmony 525 I hadn't
used for at least 10 years.

The software for this remote, an older version of MyHarmony, wouldn't
run on W8.1, but the Mac version did once a Java variant was added. It
obviously uses a current database, as it picked up reasonably new
TV/amp/BR kit, and seems to work very well. Might well go back to using it.

To the OP - the return for 'Linn Majik' is 'Linn Amplifier 2 (Majik)'.


The download, a 400KB executable named MyHarmony-App.exe was checked
with Microsoft Security Essentials anti virus and uploaded to
https://www.virustotal.com/ for an on-line scan, both reported nothing
found.

I then looked inside the file using Resource Hacker
http://www.angusj.com/resourcehacker/
and HexEdit
http://www.hexedit.com/

and couldn't see anything out of the ordinary.

I started up Nirsoft DNS sniffer
http://www.nirsoft.net/utils/dns_query_sniffer.html
and currports.
http://www.nirsoft.net/utils/cports.html
also running (as always) were WinPatrol, WinPrivacy and Comodo programs
manager.

I then started the MyHarmony-app which connected to app.myharmony.com
and downloaded and ran what appears to be a front end to a web based
app which allows one to create a Harmony account and "Set up your
harmony" I created an account, then logged out of it.

I then uninstalled the MyHarmony thing using the standard Windows
method and it uninstalled cleanly leaving no leftover files, folders or
registry entries.

The whole process was painless and I thought it a well behaved app
which did nothing naughty.
I then forgot to post the results till I read this follow up, (Try and
avoid having a stroke, the loss of short term memory is very hard to
cope with:-() so I went through the whole rigmarole again just now with
the same results.


Good grief! Nice of you to be so thorough, but I'd suggest the concerns
expressed by Jim are (erm) remote. If people remain worried they can
always get a Mac :-)

All the best with the stroke recovery by the way. 3 or 4 quite close
friends have been hit over the years. One couldn't use proper nouns for
about 6 months - he'd substitute people's names with random words for
example. Happy to report that all are back to full health.

I must say I'm impressed with the Harmony remote, I have a a couple of
One For All universals which are good but limited in the number of
items that can be controlled, so I may look into it further when/if my
latest ebay buy arrives from Shenzen
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/131465808261


Yes, they are good once you get used to the 'Activities' mode (control
multiple devices from one set of keys). I doubt the splitter (clever
looking thing!) you've bought is in the database but it can always 'learn'.

The software is to say the least an acquired taste, but gets there in
the end.

--
Cheers, Rob

Linn Majik
 

In article , RJH
wrote:
Good grief! Nice of you to be so thorough, but I'd suggest the concerns
expressed by Jim are (erm) remote. If people remain worried they can
always get a Mac :-)

Actually, currently the omission in what people are saying that seems most
obvious to me is the matter of OS choice. It is apparently taken for
granted that everyone must use Windows or Macs.

How would I (or anyone else) do this *without* having to run a commercial
non-UK OS? I've seen mentions of Windows and Macs, but not Linux or other
OSs. Is this another example where large companies take for granted that
you have to give money (and control over your OS) to Microsoft or Apple?

Jim

--
Please use the address on the audiomisc page if you wish to email me.
Electronics http://www.st-and.ac.uk/~www_pa/Scot...o/electron.htm
Armstrong Audio http://www.audiomisc.co.uk/Armstrong/armstrong.html
Audio Misc http://www.audiomisc.co.uk/index.html

Linn Majik
 

An update. Borrowed a Linn remote from a pal, and that works just fine.
But none on Ebay.

Found a Philips remote lying around (I don't chuck that sort of thing out
;-) ) which operated the volume and mute. But nothing else.

So after all the positive comments on here bought a Harmony 350.

Downloaded the software to the laptop and kept getting an error message at
the finish - something about not being able to find the software updater
and told me to log in again. Which I did several times, but still the same
message. And it was obvious the remote hadn't been programmed as the
device button is meant to light when you press a key.

So went through the entire process again on the desktop. Deleted the Linn
from it and started from fresh. This time everything seemed to go to plan.
Pressing the volume rocker button made the device button light up.

And the remote now works. It operates the volume and mute - but nothing
else. ;-(

It accepted Linn and Majik when programming, so I was perhaps naive to
assume it knew the device.

The instruction book may be a thick tomb but only contains a couple of
pages of instructions - the others just being other languages.

And their website the usual mess. But I'll try and go through it later.

--
*Hard work has a future payoff. Laziness pays off NOW.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Silly question!
 

In article ,
Graeme Wall wrote:
But if you do have an existing record deck, that could surely be moved to
the computer easily?

It;s the bit between the deck and the computer which is the problem, ie
the proper pre-amp.

Then get an RIAA pre-amp. Vast range on Ebay from about 15 quid upwards.
Record deck plugs into that, output into the line in on the computer. I
assume the PC being a desktop has one? You might also need to buy the
correct output lead from the pre-amp to PC input.

--
*Constipated People Don't Give A Crap*

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Linn Majik
 

In article:

Dave Plowman (News) says...

And their website the usual mess. But I'll try and go through it later.

If you can borrow that original remote again then you can add the
missing functions.

https://support.myharmony.com/en/tea...issing-command


--
Ken O'Meara

List of UK hi-fi & audio dealers:
http://unsteadyken.esy.es/

Silly question!
 

The problem is that many of the mains-powered ones introduce
appreciable hum.

On Fri, 10 Jul 2015 12:27:58 +0100, "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote:

Then get an RIAA pre-amp. Vast range on Ebay from about 15 quid upwards.
--
================================================== ======
Please always reply to ng as the email in this post's
header does not exist. Or use a contact address at:
http://www.macfh.co.uk/JavaJive/JavaJive.html
http://www.macfh.co.uk/Macfarlane/Macfarlane.html

Linn Majik
 

In article ,
UnsteadyKen wrote:

In article:

Dave Plowman (News) says...

And their website the usual mess. But I'll try and go through it later.

If you can borrow that original remote again then you can add the
missing functions.

https://support.myharmony.com/en/tea...issing-command

Sadly, that's going to be a pain as it belongs to a pal who was visiting
London. Dunno when he will be again.

I have other remotes which say they can copy from one. I was hoping the
350 would just work. Or have instructions on how to make it do so.

Why does everything work for others but not me? ;-)

Been on to their website, and had to register again to get access to help
- and it looks like a forum or whatever so pot luck that someone has had
the same problem - it doesn't come up with anything in a search. Nor can I
find a proper manual. Perhaps no one can read these days.

--
*Why do psychics have to ask you for your name? *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Silly question!
 

In article ,
Java Jive wrote:
The problem is that many of the mains-powered ones introduce
appreciable hum.

Remove an earth, then.

On Fri, 10 Jul 2015 12:27:58 +0100, "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote:

Then get an RIAA pre-amp. Vast range on Ebay from about 15 quid upwards.

--
*Why do we say something is out of whack? What is a whack?

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Silly question!
 

If only it were that simple ...
:-( Removing an earth may not cure the problem
:-( Removing an earth may give the user really nasty static shocks
due to the normal action of a stylus rubbing against vinyl.

On Fri, 10 Jul 2015 14:48:29 +0100, "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote:

Remove an earth, then.
--
================================================== ======
Please always reply to ng as the email in this post's
header does not exist. Or use a contact address at:
http://www.macfh.co.uk/JavaJive/JavaJive.html
http://www.macfh.co.uk/Macfarlane/Macfarlane.html

Linn Majik
 

In article:

Dave Plowman (News) says...

I have other remotes which say they can copy from one. I was hoping the
350 would just work. Or have instructions on how to make it do so.

Yep, the Logitech units look good at first sight, but the reliance on a
PC for setup and the complexity does count against them.

Why does everything work for others but not me? ;-)

Join the club! I often look at all the remotes here and think it's
getting out of hand, but consider the amount of buttons on them and the
size of the boxes they control, moving the controls to the device
itself would mean we'd be on our hands and knees with a toothpick,
torch and magnifying glass trying to change channels:-(




--
Ken O'Meara

List of UK hi-fi & audio dealers:
http://unsteadyken.esy.es/

Silly question!
 

On 10/07/2015 12:27, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Graeme Wall wrote:
But if you do have an existing record deck, that could surely be moved to
the computer easily?

It;s the bit between the deck and the computer which is the problem, ie
the proper pre-amp.

Then get an RIAA pre-amp. Vast range on Ebay from about 15 quid upwards.
Record deck plugs into that, output into the line in on the computer. I
assume the PC being a desktop has one?

Unfortunately not! Hence looking at using USB to access the beast.
(Apple iMac) Though I gather there are audio-in to USB adaptors
available. Just that means yet another connector in the chain.

You might also need to buy the
correct output lead from the pre-amp to PC input.



--
Graeme Wall
This account not read, substitute trains for rail.