**ALL Connections. That includes connections to the drivers.


Easier said than done as the driver cabinets are extremely difficult to get
into as the drive units use a sealant to ensure a air tight fit.

* Cover all internal surfaces with a suitable damping material. I rather
like Bostik Sound Deadening panels.

Hmm I'm not saying this is a bad idea as I've used sound deading panels &
materials in car door panels before with great effect (car doors arn't
exactly rigid affairs) but the SBL's use some rather unique tuning devices
(not sure what they are made of) that are adhered to the inside of the
enclosures. I know this as I saw an internal unit at thier launch. It's also
a one of treatment, like it or hate it once it's done.

The crossovers are externally
mounted.

**Your point being?

My point was to merely mention where they were as I was not sure in your
post what you were refering to in damping.

Stevie Boy wrote:


**ALL Connections. That includes connections to the drivers.


Easier said than done as the driver cabinets are extremely difficult to get
into as the drive units use a sealant to ensure a air tight fit.

* Cover all internal surfaces with a suitable damping material. I rather
like Bostik Sound Deadening panels.

Hmm I'm not saying this is a bad idea as I've used sound deading panels &
materials in car door panels before with great effect (car doors arn't
exactly rigid affairs) but the SBL's use some rather unique tuning devices
(not sure what they are made of) that are adhered to the inside of the
enclosures. I know this as I saw an internal unit at thier launch.

That sounds very odd indeed.


It's also a one of treatment, like it or hate it once it's done.

There's no question that more cabinet damping greater accuracy or neutrality
if you prefer. Unless you don't want that of course.

Graham