In article ,
Ian Thompson-Bell wrote:
I am building a tube based mic pre into a 19inch rack case which is
painted black. I want to label the inputs, outputs and controls. What
options are open to a hobbyist?

RS do a rather nice anodised aluminium printing system. You use the
supplied thin aluminium sheet and etch the print on it - using a dye.
Colours are red green blue yellow and black plus of course the 'bare'
aluminium. You do the artwork on your computer and print out full size to
a transparency. Then expose the coated aluminium via that to UV light.
Then a series of chemical processes. It's quite pricey - over 100 quid for
a starter kit that will do several panels, but then so is having engraving
or proper printing done - and it's extremely robust unlike letraset, etc.
You glue the result onto the existing panel using supplied double sided
sheet. The results can be superb - the only limits being your design
skills and the colours available. But making the panel anodised black with
natural ally coloured print looks very smart indeed.

You can download the instructions from

http://rswww.com/cgi-bin/bv/rswww/searchBrowseAction.do?N=0&name=SiteStandard&forwar @@@ @&BV_EngineID=cccdaddmlgekdhgcefeceeldgondhgh.0&ca cheID=uknetscape&Nr=avl:uk

If that's too involved ;-) use


http://rswww.com

and do a search for part number 568-073.

--
*Verbs HAS to agree with their subjects *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

John Byrns wrote:
In article ,
Raymond Koonce wrote:

I've done this with silk screen. It's a little fussy for a one-off job
but it looks very nice when it's finished. Take a look at
http://www.timebanditaudio.com/47%20amp/carmen47.html.

Raymond, how did you pick the 47 for this amplifier? Your line of
thought must have been rather interesting.


Regards,

John Byrns

Hi John,

Not entirely my idea. A friend built an amp using this tube and liked
it. I had several pairs and some appropriate transformers, so I decided
to build something with what I had. About the only thing I didn't have
on hand was the copper chassis. All in all it's a nice amp, but I still
have some issues with the 816s to resolve. I would like to have a small
(2uF or so) cap on the input to the PS, but the 816s don't like it.

Best regards,

Raymond

In article ,
Raymond Koonce wrote:

Hi John,

Not entirely my idea. A friend built an amp using this tube and liked
it. I had several pairs and some appropriate transformers, so I decided
to build something with what I had. About the only thing I didn't have
on hand was the copper chassis. All in all it's a nice amp, but I still
have some issues with the 816s to resolve. I would like to have a small
(2uF or so) cap on the input to the PS, but the 816s don't like it.

I don't follow you, why would you like a 2 uF capacitor on the input to
the PS, is the B+ too low?


Regards,

John Byrns

--
Surf my web pages at, http://fmamradios.com/

John Byrns wrote:
In article ,
Raymond Koonce wrote:

Hi John,

Not entirely my idea. A friend built an amp using this tube and liked
it. I had several pairs and some appropriate transformers, so I decided
to build something with what I had. About the only thing I didn't have
on hand was the copper chassis. All in all it's a nice amp, but I still
have some issues with the 816s to resolve. I would like to have a small
(2uF or so) cap on the input to the PS, but the 816s don't like it.

I don't follow you, why would you like a 2 uF capacitor on the input to
the PS, is the B+ too low?


Regards,

John Byrns

Yes, I'd like the B+ just a little higher and it's easy to do with a
small cap if you're using a vacuum rectifier. The amp is pretty nice as
is though.

BR,

Raymond

Doug Bannard wrote:
"Ian Thompson-Bell" wrote in message
...
I am building a tube based mic pre into a 19inch rack case which is painted
black. I want to label the inputs, outputs and controls. What options are
open to a hobbyist?

Cheers

Ian

There are a number of options open to you:

1) The old way. Letraset (or similar) dry transfer letters. These require
some skill and patience to apply, and if you do decide to go this route,
make certain that the stock that you buy is fresh. If the transfers have
been sitting around for five years, it's a crap shoot whether they'll
transfer nicely to your panel or not. You'll also need to clear coat your
panel after applying the letters so that they don't get rubbed off with use.


I remember when I was at Neve, the designs for module front panels were
done twice full size using Letraset then sent to the silk screeners..

2) P-Touch label maker (made by Brother) or similar. These print self
adhesive plastic labels, and the deluxe versions handle multiple fonts and
character sizes. If you use the laminated tapes that are available, you can
print black or white characters on a clear tape background, or, for your
application, white characters on a black background would probably be
satisfactory as well.


That is probably my best/easiest bet. I have a Dymo electronic label
printer and I think they do transparent stock.

See: http://www.brother-usa.com/ptouch/

3) If you like playing computer a lot you can print a transfer on clear
self adhesive stock to cover your entire front panel, using a laser printer.
This can look great if everything is scaled correctly and you get the
transfer applied straight.


That sounds interesting - only problem is how do you make hole for the
post and switches?

Thanks Doug

Laurence Payne wrote:
On Sun, 23 Dec 2007 13:28:34 +0000, Ian Thompson-Bell
wrote:

I am building a tube based mic pre into a 19inch rack case which is
painted black. I want to label the inputs, outputs and controls. What
options are open to a hobbyist?

Is this utility, or are you making up something to sell?

It is for my own personal use.


If the
former, one of those label printers - the modern version of Dymo -
will do the job.

I worked with Dymo on their label printers many years ago - I even have
one and I think they do transparent labels - looks like a good thing to
try first.

Cheers

Ian

Jon Yaeger wrote:
in article , Ian Thompson-Bell at
wrote on 12/23/07 8:28 AM:

I am building a tube based mic pre into a 19inch rack case which is
painted black. I want to label the inputs, outputs and controls. What
options are open to a hobbyist?

Cheers

Ian


DATAK bran transfer letters are probably the most available and easy-to-use
solution.

Is this the same as Letraset or different in some fundamental way?

Cheers

Ian

Raymond Koonce wrote:
Ian Thompson-Bell wrote:
I am building a tube based mic pre into a 19inch rack case which is
painted black. I want to label the inputs, outputs and controls. What
options are open to a hobbyist?

Cheers

Ian

Ian,

I've done this with silk screen. It's a little fussy for a one-off job
but it looks very nice when it's finished. Take a look at
http://www.timebanditaudio.com/47%20amp/carmen47.html.

Lovely piece of work Raymond.


Cheers

Ian

Andre Jute wrote:
Ian Thompson-Bell wrote:

I am building a tube based mic pre into a 19inch rack case which is
painted black. I want to label the inputs, outputs and controls. What
options are open to a hobbyist?

Cheers

Ian

Undoubtedly the most professional way to do it is to design the art in
a page layout or other vector art programme on your computer and have
it professionally silkscreened onto the metal.

major snippage

Many Thanks Andre, some really good ideas there. I have saved your email
for future reference.

Cheers

Ian

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Ian Thompson-Bell wrote:
I am building a tube based mic pre into a 19inch rack case which is
painted black. I want to label the inputs, outputs and controls. What
options are open to a hobbyist?

RS do a rather nice anodised aluminium printing system.

Major snippgae.

Thanks Dave. I am in the UK so RS is a good option for me. I'll look
into it.

Cheers

Ian