In article ,
Keith G wrote:
The endless/meaningless/irrelevant blather from this arrogant **** who
thinks he knows more than the professionals did *decades* ago is no
longer worth looking at and/or commenting on - even *obliquely*....

Thanks for proving yet again you're not a 'professional' in anything.
Apart from bull****, obviously.

--
*Never miss a good chance to shut up *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

"David Looser" wrote in message
...
"Arny Krueger" wrote in message
...



Agreed. Take for example my experience of blowing a 5A standard blow fuse
with a 100 wpc amp driving a home speaker that was very similar to an AR3
woofer.

100W *sine wave* into 4 ohm is 5A rms. So even driving the amp to clipping
with a sine wave, and leaving it there, you won't blow a 5A fuse,

You might want to rerun your math with the following practical adjustments:

(1) Consumer power ratings are almost universally taken with an 8 ohm load.

(2) In addition, power amps sold in the US market have to be somewhat
conservatively rated because of FTC preconditioning.

(3) The AR3 dips to about 3 ohms within the bass range.

"Arny Krueger" wrote in message
...


You might want to rerun your math with the following practical
adjustments:

(1) Consumer power ratings are almost universally taken with an 8 ohm
load.

(2) In addition, power amps sold in the US market have to be somewhat
conservatively rated because of FTC preconditioning.

(3) The AR3 dips to about 3 ohms within the bass range.


Then you are talking about a 267W amplifier, not a 100W one (the voltage
limit that gives 100W into 8 ohm gives 267W into 3 ohm) if the amp can
deliver the 9A rms that that implies then it's a 267W amp.

Even then to blow a 5A fuse you would need to be running a continuous
sinewave into the speaker at the frequency of the 3 ohm dip, not likely even
with heavily compressed music.

David.

Dave Plowman (News) wrote..

And this proves what? Other than cables need to be up to the job?

It wasn't intended to prove anything, just a light hearted answer to
your question: "Why would anyone use standard jump leads".

Then they're not 'super heavy duty' enough. Or does the cable twixt
battery and starter routinely melt on such vehicles?

Tell that to Boss Skinflint.

Not really an answer to the point.

No, they don't melt. Dunno why, maybe they are made from high end
loudspeaker cable.

--
Ken
http://unsteadyken.110mb.com/

Keith G wrote:

"Rob" wrote


That's pretty impressive - it'd take me a while (if ever) to get
anything as sharp.


You already did - see:

http://www.moirac.adsl24.co.uk/RobPhonos.jpg

I suspect your pic was a straightforward Jpeg and *unsharpened*?

Much as I prefer not to use any 'sharpening' it is advisable (if not
unavoidable) to apply a whiff of USM (Unsharp Mask)

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Unsharp_masking

to counteract the blurring effects of the camera's 'anti-aliasing' filter:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anti-aliasing

http://www.photographicworkflow.com/...liasing_Filter


The settings I used were very mild: Radius 2.00; Strength 100; Clipping 1


Ha! That's impressive!


(Shooting RAW files is the answer but I CBA with all that myself -
*yet*..!! :-)


I've started to use RAW (+ medium JPG) - and it did save quite a few
important snaps recently, after I'd forgotten to reset the exposure. All
in an effort to move towards working with photos in software.

With a Canon macro lens (um - EF-S 60mm) this is
about the best I could come up with after about 10 minutes piddling
about:

http://patchoulian.googlepages.com/photo

And I learnt the following: ignore the meter

Yep!

and use manual settings,

Yep!

use the flash,

Yep!

manual focus.

And yep!!

= A *perfect* shot in my book! :-)


Look pretty good - even if getting there was counter-intuitive ;-)

Rob

"David Looser" wrote in message
...
"Arny Krueger" wrote in message
...


You might want to rerun your math with the following practical
adjustments:

(1) Consumer power ratings are almost universally taken with an 8 ohm
load.

(2) In addition, power amps sold in the US market have to be somewhat
conservatively rated because of FTC preconditioning.

(3) The AR3 dips to about 3 ohms within the bass range.

Then you are talking about a 267W amplifier, not a 100W one (the voltage
limit that gives 100W into 8 ohm gives 267W into 3 ohm) if the amp can
deliver the 9A rms that that implies then it's a 267W amp.

Even then to blow a 5A fuse you would need to be running a continuous
sinewave into the speaker at the frequency of the 3 ohm dip, not likely
even with heavily compressed music.

Hey man, all I know is that the 5A fuse blew, and more than once. BTW, this
fuse protected just a woofer, which had its own amp.

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article ,
Keith G wrote:
The endless/meaningless/irrelevant blather from this arrogant **** who
thinks he knows more than the professionals did *decades* ago is no
longer worth looking at and/or commenting on - even *obliquely*....

Thanks for proving yet again you're not a 'professional' in anything.


But how would this monkeyboi know...??

(Asitappens, I'm probably the only person in this group with a 'Certificate
Of Professional Competence'!! :-))


Apart from bull****, obviously.


Oh, he's sure to know about that, though - most 'moonlight electricians' who
fancy themselves as *recording engineers* are usually well up on
bull****....

LOL!!




--
*Never miss a good chance to shut up *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

"Rob" wrote in message
om...
Keith G wrote:

"Rob" wrote


That's pretty impressive - it'd take me a while (if ever) to get
anything as sharp.


You already did - see:

http://www.moirac.adsl24.co.uk/RobPhonos.jpg

I suspect your pic was a straightforward Jpeg and *unsharpened*?

Much as I prefer not to use any 'sharpening' it is advisable (if not
unavoidable) to apply a whiff of USM (Unsharp Mask)

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Unsharp_masking

to counteract the blurring effects of the camera's 'anti-aliasing'
filter:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anti-aliasing

http://www.photographicworkflow.com/...liasing_Filter


The settings I used were very mild: Radius 2.00; Strength 100; Clipping 1


Ha! That's impressive!


(Shooting RAW files is the answer but I CBA with all that myself -
*yet*..!! :-)


I've started to use RAW (+ medium JPG) - and it did save quite a few
important snaps recently, after I'd forgotten to reset the exposure. All
in an effort to move towards working with photos in software.

With a Canon macro lens (um - EF-S 60mm) this is
about the best I could come up with after about 10 minutes piddling
about:

http://patchoulian.googlepages.com/photo

And I learnt the following: ignore the meter

Yep!

and use manual settings,

Yep!

use the flash,

Yep!

manual focus.

And yep!!

= A *perfect* shot in my book! :-)


Look pretty good - even if getting there was counter-intuitive ;-)


:-)

Interestingly, photo gear is a bit like 'audio gear' (or cars/motorbikes,
come to that) these days - pretty hard to buy summat with a 'name' that
isn't really quite excellent!

But best leave it there Rob, we don't want Gay Pucci whining about 'OT' or
'blogging' - this being somewhat *technical* and well outside his Comfort
Zone! (Jump leads that don't get hot, jack plugs, fuses and 'I'll also throw
in a nice new dimmer for the lounge, missus'...!!)

Reminds me - did you see my 'Arse Grit' pic?

http://www.moirac.adsl24.co.uk/ArseGrit.JPG

:-)

"Arny Krueger" wrote in message
...

"David Looser" wrote in message
...
"Arny Krueger" wrote in message
...


You might want to rerun your math with the following practical
adjustments:

(1) Consumer power ratings are almost universally taken with an 8 ohm
load.

(2) In addition, power amps sold in the US market have to be somewhat
conservatively rated because of FTC preconditioning.

(3) The AR3 dips to about 3 ohms within the bass range.

Then you are talking about a 267W amplifier, not a 100W one (the voltage
limit that gives 100W into 8 ohm gives 267W into 3 ohm) if the amp can
deliver the 9A rms that that implies then it's a 267W amp.

Even then to blow a 5A fuse you would need to be running a continuous
sinewave into the speaker at the frequency of the 3 ohm dip, not likely
even with heavily compressed music.

Hey man, all I know is that the 5A fuse blew, and more than once. BTW,
this fuse protected just a woofer, which had its own amp.



Arny *flushed out* again? - What is the worls coming to?

(Pity Iain's not here to see it! :-)

In article ,
Keith G wrote:

LOL!!

Says it all.

--
*Therapy is expensive, poppin' bubble wrap is cheap! You choose.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.